CSA Experience

We signed up for our first CSA this year & it was amazing. I was documenting it on my Instagram, but wanted to lay it all out in 1 place to really illustrate the benefits.

What is a CSA?

Community Sponsored Agriculture (or community-supported agriculture; I've heard it both ways), is a program in which the community purchases shares of a farm's produce. This is a great way to get farm-fresh produce that is both local and seasonal. And of course, it also helps support small farms in your area.

If you are interested in the misfit or ugly produce programs, this is something else to consider. Just like these more commercial programs, food waste is reduced as the farms aren't picking the best looking items. You will get some funky looking pieces, but they will taste just as good as the pretty ones. In fact, I find my farm-fresh produce is so much more flavorful than that at the supermarket! It's picked when ripe, not in advance so it won't go bad on a truck. It's still covered in dirt because it came from the fields that day or the day before, and it hasn't been waxed or over washed. None of your CSA product has sat in a truck or freezer for an extended period of time.

CSAs are also cool because you are getting local & seasonal items, which may cause you to go outside your comfort zone, think outside the box, and really learn to enjoy fruits & veggies.

How to choose a CSA?

Look for a farm or farmer's market near you! Compare offerings too, as different farms may have different arrangements. 

There are 2 farms near me offering CSAs. Both offer an 18-week summer share. Both also offer a winter storage share, but one farm does a one-time pick-up and the other has 2 pick-ups. Only 1 farm does a 6-week spring share. These farms also vary in size options. One farm offers 3 sizes: personal (1/2 bushel), half (3/4 bushel), and full (1 bushel); the other only offers 2 sizes: half (1/2 bushel), and full (full bushel). For the farm I chose, your share size not just determines the number of items, but how many different items: the smallest share might get 5 different veg  & the larges share might get 10 different veg.

Look into other offerings too! The farms in my area also farm-fresh eggs and local honey that you can add to your share.

What does a CSA share look like?

Edited June 2021: This year the farm offered a Spring Greens share, which I thought was pretty exciting & wanted to include in my post. It was a one-size-fits all share & looks to be that way moving forward. It's a 4-week share, however, the summer crop was not ready yet so they offered a 2 week extension this year.

Week 1 2 heads of escarole, spinach, lettuce mix, microgreens, hakurai turnips, radishes, and asparagus	Week 2 red leaf lettuce, spinach, Asian lettuce mix, microgreens, hakurai turnips, radishes, and purple asparagus	Week 3 Boston bib, bok choy, salad mix, lettuce, micro greens, asparagus, and hakurai turnips
Week 4 romaine, bok choy, purple turnips, asparagus, spinach, salad mix, and microgreens	Week 5 napa cabbage, purple asparagus, kale, lettuce mix, boston red, kohlrabi, and hakurai turnips	Week 6 purple cabbage, purple asparagus, boston red, broccoli, salad mix, microgreens, and fennel

Well, I can't say for sure that my experience is average, but take a look below to see what my 18-week summer half share entailed. You will notice early weeks were a bit sparse, and the later weeks started getting smaller too, because that's how the season works. We also opted to add-on 1 dozen farm-fresh eggs to our weekly produce share (not pictured)

Starting 2022, the Summer share will be extended to 20 weeks!

Week 1 cabbage, romaine, Boston bib, onions, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes	Week 2 red cabbage, romaine, arugula, cucumber, onion, bell pepper, tomatoes, potatoes, zucchini, summer squash	Week 3 napa cabbage, frisee, bell peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, summer squash, cantaloupe, red/yellow onions
Week 4  kale, basil, cantaloupe, tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, zucchini, summer squash, red potatoes, bell pepper, anaheim peppers, red onion, cucumber	Week 5 corn, potatoes, onion, green peppers, tomatoes, summer squash, zucchini, eggplant, basil, cantaloupe	Week 6 cantaloupe, corn, zucchini, summer squash, bell peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, onion, green beans
Week 7 black watermelon, rainbow chard, basil, corn, summer squash, potatoes, bell pepper, tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, white onion, scallions, green beans, fresh garlic	Week 8  Tuscan melon, corn, tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, green beans, cucumber, eggplant, zucchini, summer squash, pattypan squash, potatoes, onions	Week 9 corn, watermelon, dragon tongue beans, cherry tomatoes, tomatoes, Bermuda onion, bell pepper, banana pepper, new potatoes, cucumbers, summer squash, green beans, eggplant, pattypan squash
Week 10 corn, watermelon, eggplant, kale, basil, tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, onion, potatoes, shishito peppers, baby garlic	Week 11 butternut squash, yellow watermelon, corn, Japanese eggplant, bell peppers, tomatoes, pickling cucumbers, potatoes, shishito peppers, green beans, basil	Week 12 broccoli, cabbage, yellow watermelon, tomatoes, tomatillos, baby acorn squash, delicata squash, honey crisp apples, sweet red pepper, poblanos, jalepeño, potatoes, pickling cucumbers
Week 13 cabbage, spaghetti squash, watermelon, basil, kale, microgreens, Roma tomatoes, eggplant, sweet red peppers, honey crisp apples, potatoes	Week 14 cabbage, butternut squash, broccoli, green bell peppers, carmen peppers, new potatoes, purple daikon radishes, Roma tomatoes, honey crisp apples	Week 15 sugar pumpkin, orangetti spaghetti squash, mini acorn squash, green bell pepper, carmen pepper, carrots, purple daikons, broccolini, tomatoes, honey crisp apples, sweet potatoes
Week 16 cabbage, rutabaga, lettuce, carnival squash, watermelon radishes, purple topped turnips, honey crisp apples, sweet pepper, parsley	Week 17 beet, acorn squash, lettuce, spinach, purple daikons, purple topped turnips, onion, spinach, carrots, honey crisp apples	Week 18 beet, delicata squash, acorn squash, lettuce blend, cabbage, cilantro, onion, purple daikon, tomatoes, honey crisp apples

We also signed up for the winter storage share. This share is hearty fruit & veg that will store for a long time over the winter. These items will easily last weeks, if not months if stored properly. A cellar or unheated garage is a great place to keep these items, but many will also fare well on your counter or refrigerator if you have the room.

Edited November 2021: I just wanted to add some notes as we saw some changes in the dried goods this year including polenta & oats! Parsnips & celeriac made an appearance as well.

Week 1 red beans (dry), rutabaga, pumpkin, beets, popping corn, sweet potatoes, onions, potatoes, honey crisp apples, Brussels sprout

Week 2 delicata squash, butternut squash, Thelma Sanders sweet potato squash, leeks, sweet potatoes, golden potatoes, red potatoes, red/yellow onions, honey crisp apples, cabbage, black beans (dry), honey

Stay tuned as I will be creating a new post, probably in the new year, that showcases all the amazing farm-fresh dishes we've made from our 2020 spring & winter shares.

Lacto-fermentation & Dairy Allergies

Just the name lacto-fermentation may sound like it's impossible with a dairy intolerance or allergy, but it's not! Lactobacillus is the bacteria used in lacto-fermentation and it converts the sugars naturally occurring in fruit or vegetables into lactic acid. Lactic acid is a natural preservative that helps fight bad bacteria while preserving flavor, texture, and nutrients. Lactic acid still sounds like it's related to milk, but it's not. Lactose is what we dairy-intolerant need to watch out for, but it is not used in this process!

Lacto-fermentation is done with salt, which kills harmful bacteria and allows beneficial bacteria to grow.

Why Lacto-Fermentation?
As mentioned above, the lactic acid created in this fermentation process helps preserve flavor, texture, and nutrients while also helping extend the shelf life of the fruit or vegetable. Live cultures also contribute to a healthy digestive system, which just makes you happier and more comfortable ;) The lactobacillus culture is also supposed to help fight off yeast infections, as well as various other health claims like anti-inflammatory properties.

Whey as a Starter?
Some recipes call or using whey, a milk protein which is a definite problem for those of us with dairy allergies. This just isn't necessary and is introducing bacterias that aren't really part of the process. The idea here is that introducing a starter may get you a better ferment (along the lines of kombucha or vinegar), but it's just not needed in this instance. If you like the flavor and aren't allergic to dairy, go ahead, but using just salt is all you really need.

That said, there are a few instances where some sort of starter is needed (although it doesn't necessarily have to be whey; in fact, I would recommend using some brine from one of your other lacto-ferments). Those instances are when you are fermenting something that doesn't already contain bacteria. Fruits & vegetables will have plenty, but certain things like condiments will not. If you are fermenting ketchup, mayonnaise, or even something like lemonade, a bit of starter is needed to kick things off.

What Should I Ferment?
This process lends itself best to firm & hardy vegetables. Brassicas / cruciferous vegetables can get fairly pungent, so mixing them with other vegetables may be desired.

Right now I've got a red cabbage / caraway seed sauerkraut & zucchini / summer squash pickles going. Some Polish sour dill pickles & kimchi are also in the line-up.

Pest Control: Mice

A lot of our natural deterrent methods have been working, but this summer we have been graced by a mouse. Now I don't know about you, but I have an issue killing mice. They're cute...I just can't do it. Not to mention I do not want to find one in one of those old, dangerous traps. So I've been looking for methods that I can use to help drive them out & keep them away, although there are a few nuclear options if you must.

1. Put Away Your Food!
Sounds simple enough, but leaving any sort of food out with attracting mice. If you have a bowl of fruit or vegetables, consider moving them to the refrigerator. I personally keep a bowl for stale bread (heels, etc) which continues to dry out until I eventually urn it into bread crumbs. Metal and glass containers are best for anything that may be in an easily accessible location like the counter or pantry. Heavy-duty plastic is also an option, but determined mice can slowly work their way in.

This goes beyond food too. If you have a stash of blankets int eh basement, consider storing them in heavy-duty plastic tubs. Infrequently used blankets, towels, and clothing can be used as nesting material. Growing up, we lost a box of books to mice, because we stored the books in cardboard.

2. Close the Holes
Find where mic may be entering your home and seal up those spaces. Anything 1/4 inch or larger can be an entry point for a mouse. Mark the area, clean it, and seal it up. Make sure to check both inside & out. Common household items you can use are green scouring pads, copper scrubbers, steel wool, or as weird as it sounds human hair.

3. Vinegar
Mice don't like strong smells, and white vinegar is mighty strong. This is also safe (although maybe annoying) for your pets. Clean your house, and particularly your kitchen, with white vinegar. You an even "refresh" the area by spraying more where you suspect mice are visiting, nesting, or even getting in.

4. Dried Herbs & Essential Oils
There are also some pretty common, household spices that you can use to deter mice that will also be generally safe for your pets:

• Peppermint
• Cayenne (or tobasco!)
• Pepper
• Clove
• Citronella (essential oil)
• Eucalyptus (essential oil)

Just like vinegar, these pungent herbs & spices tend to bother mice and drive them away. You can make small sachets of the herbs using cheesecloth, or soak cotton balls in oil. I've also considered infusing my vinegar wash. If you choose to go the essential oil route, please double-check their safety.

5. Onions & Garlic
Another pungent deterrent. Be careful with onions & garlic as they are not safe for most pets. You also want to place them in an area where you can easily swap them out every few days, otherwise, you risk a rotting onion problem! And while that still may keep the mice away, you really don't want to deal with that stench.

6. Ammonia or Used Kitty Litter
So, I haven't tested this, but I've seen a TON of recommendations. Cats are a natural predator for mice, so having their used litter (urine) around helps keep mice away. You can also use snake litter. They know that scent and don't want to risk their lives. Ammonia tends to mimic the scent of many predator's urine, so even placing small cups or cotton soaked balls may also help (but keep anything with ammonia out of reach of pets & children!).

Natural predators are also helpful. Cats often can solve your problem in a matter of days by keeping mice away, or at least taking care of the catching/elimination part. Many dogs can also aid here, although they tend not to be as effective it seems. You can also try to attract barn owls to your property, or even get your hands on a few of their feathers to leave about.

7. Electronic Deterrents
There are ultrasonic buzzers/zappers that are supposed to deter mice. I've never used them, but have something similar for spiders that has definitely worked for me. I've seen some pretty good reviews. Even though these are ultrasonic, they aren't supposed to bother your typical pet like dogs or cats.

8. Humane Traps
You don't have to kill mice with those terrifying traps (serisouly... how do more people not lose fingers?!). I like this because the mouse doesn't die. However, make sure to release the mouse at least 1 mile away from your home, or they will just find their way back!

9. Nuclear Options
There are still more natural alternatives if killing mice is your only option. Instant potato flakes, much like corn starch for ants, will fill up a mouse's stomach and basically kill them as they expand. Plaster of Paris mixed with cocoa powder is another option, where the mouse is attracted to the cocoa but the plaster of paris makes them leave your house to seek water (and kills them). There are also electronic mouse traps, which are said to humanely kill the mouse by zapping them. These traps are closed, so while they are reusable, you also don't have to look inside & can just dispose of the whole thing (for $20-30).

Making Your Own Medical Face Mask

Man. it's been a trip. I got married, got sick, and now COVID-19 is at all of our doors. With the insane shortage of masks available combined with being at risk myself due to my health history and my MIL working at the local hospital, it was only a matter of time before I used my craftiness to make my own. I decided it was time to do some serious research, which means this is going to be a long post, so buckle up!

Why Homemade Masks?

The CDC is recommending cloth masks as a means to help flatten the curve,. They are not 100% effective and depending on your material types, efficacy ranges are drastic. However, any barrier covering your nose & mouth helps reduce your chances of catching the virus. The more you can seal the mask, the more effective it will be. Adjustable nose bridges are a great idea & super helpful, as well as securing straps that keep the mask tight against the face.

Masks also help prevent touching your own face. The virus can survive for extended periods of time on inorganic matter. Wearing a mask helps stop you from putting your hands near your nose or moth, which also helps reduce your risk of exposure.

It is important to know that homemade masks are not medical grade, nor are they a single solution. Primarily they prevent the wearer from spreading disease, and not as much from catching disease. You still need to be diligent about hand washing, social distancing (6 feet or 3 meters apart), and shelter-in-place. It is also important to note that while gloves seem like a great idea, for the general public they aren't doing too much. That's not to say you shouldn't use them, but be aware that just like masks, gloves should be reserved for the medical field (and gloves are useful for those in other essential industries). Frequent washing of surfaces will help minimize the need for gloves as well.

But I've Heard Cloth Masks are Harmful.

This is not true. They are not as effective as the manufactured surgical masks and respirators, but any barrier is better than no barrier. The problem with people wearing cloth masks is a false sense of security, which honestly applies regardless of which type of mask you wear. When the general populous wears masks in a pandemic situation, they feel a false sense of security and aren't as diligent about other preventative methods.

What Materials Should I Use?

If you want to increase your personal protection from wearing a mask, there are a lot of extras you can add. From the fabric you choose to additional filters, you have a wide range of possibilities with an equally wide range of protection. But remember, any protection is better than none at this point.

Cotton seems to be the general consensus, which seems ironic since it is a woven fabric. Denser fabrics that are 600-count and higher are considered a pretty good choice, and flannel can be a great lining since it is softer on your face. 600-count cotton fabric blocks 22% of airborne particles with 2 layers and about 60% with 4 layers. High-quality quilting cotton can block 70-79% of airborne particles.

Halyard H600 is used by hospitals as a bacterial filtration system when cleaning surgical equipment. It is washable and relatively affordable. This recommendation originally came from the University of Florida, and hospitals can actually put masks made from this material into their autoclave for sterilization.

Oly-Fun fabric is similar to surgical sheeting, which will help keep things sterile & prevent germs. It should be sandwiched between 2 layers of cotton. If you do not have access to Oly-Fun, you can cut up reusable grocery bags or non-woven interfacing that is not dissolvable in water. Fusible interfacing is also ok. Some are concerned this impacts breathability, but if you use lightweight interfacing it should be fine. The downside of fusible may be some lingering scent from the "glue," which can be resolved with a few washes. It's recommended to use 2 layers of Oly-Fun or interfacing.

The CDC shared a "light test" to determine how impactful your fabric will be. Basically, hold it up to a light and if you can see the light through it, or more specifically if you can make out the fibers, it's not a great choice. However, even scarves & bandanas which fail this test are better than nothing!

Filter Options

Coffee Filters are probably the easiest, most affordable filter option. 3 layers blocks 40-50% of airborne particles, The downside to them is that they are not as breathable as other filters.

Surgical Masks (the pleated, disposable ones) have an effective filtration range of 60-89% of airborne particles. These are designed as single-use masks and are compromised once they become damp, but many professionals are being forced to reuse them throughout the day, or even week! However, they can be used as a filter in a sewn mask, to help prolong their lifespan, as the fabric will act as a barrier for water particles from coughing and sneezing.

N-95 Respirator Masks filter out up to 95% of particles as small as 0.3 micron; or overall 90% of airborne particles (approximately). While this isn't exactly a filtration option for homemade masks, covers can be made to extend the life of these respirators.

PM2.5 Carbon Filters will filter out 2.5 microns. These filters are limited use, usually for 48-72 hours, but you can usually find a pack for a decent price. Given the circumstances we are currently dealing with, you may even be able to stretch it to 5-7 days if necessary (it will still work better than no filter at all).

HEPA Air Filters (and vacuum bags) catch up to 99% of particles as small as 0.01 micron, and are
99.97% effective against particles as small as 0.3 micron. However in practical mask tests, vacuum bags tested closer to 60-87% blockage. You will also want to pay attention to whether the filters/bags you are looking at use fiberglass, as that is dangerous to breathe in and additional precautions need to be taken. As an alternative, you can look into 0.5mm HEPA H11 Polyester Meltblown Non-Woven Fabric HDF90-H1, which is polypropylene/plastic and not fiberglass.

Dr. Yan Wan, assistant professor of environmental engineering and Missouri University of Science & Technology, tested some filters you would typically use in your home. Allergy-reduction HVAC filters block 89% of particles, or up to 94% if using 2 layers. Furnace filters block 75% with 2 layers, but you can get up to 95% with 6 layers. If you choose either option, make sure to sandwich between cotton fabric to prevent shedding of the filter materials.

If doing your own research, Wang recommends looking for a MERV rating of 12+ or microparticle performance rating of 1900+.

COVID-19 Size

The novel coronavirus 2019 (2019-nCoV), now referred to as SARS-CoV-2, is estimated to be about 0.125 microns. However, it usually travels in an aerosolized form from coughing and sneezing, which means we are aiming to protect against 0.5-3 micron. Because of this, the medical standard is aimed at capturing particles around 0.3 micron. Also, smaller particles tend to move erratically, making them easier to catch.

Which Patterns Are Best?

There's a lot of debate and personal opinion regarding patterns. Honestly, I say choose whatever fits you best & most comfortably. Patterns that include or allow for the addition of an adjustable nose bridge are better.

The Pleated Mask is one of the easiest and most popular, but not the best sealing. This link is for the Deaconess pattern, but they all follow the same gist. You can do 4 or 5 pleats instead of 3; you can iron/press in your pleats; you can even seam in your pleats (be careful if you try this); you can even add in a filter pocket. The advantage to these masks is that the pleats and large fabric size make them easily adjustable, but I find most patterns often had such a wide side that it will pucker.

The Duckbill Mask is one of the more popular styles among medical professionals. Named for its rather obvious appearance, the advantage of this design is how easily it fits a variety of sizes. Most patterns I've been seeing lately are creating this mask out of household filters or vacuum bags, but be aware of the risk of using those materials.

The Ninja Mask is a design I've seen recommended by nurses, and it seems to be one of the most popular in general. It's a more tailored fit with good coverage.

The Chin Strap Mask is one of my favorite, design-wise. I like that the strap goes under your chin for maximum seal, and I like the tailored fit around the nose & eyes. It feels like a step up from the Ninja Mask.

Florida Univerity Prototype #2 has a great seal and comes highly recommended. It was designed by pros and has passed a fit test to ensure maximum protection. FU used Halyard 600 in both of their designs, so be aware how material choice may alter the efficacy of this design.

The Nose Mask is an N-95 copy-cat. I think this pattern is pretty ingenious & appears to offer a great seal. The downfall being, as mentioned above, the shedding of material. The filters used to create the masks in this tutorial use fiberglass which is dangerous to inhale. This mask would need to be sandwiched between some cotton fabric.

The 3D / Box Mask is my favorite. It has good coverage and adjustability. The basic version can be made out of a single rectangle of fabric, or if you are like me, you can beef it up with some interfacing and a separate liner that features a filter pocket. It feels like it has a good seal, and offers adjustability for the chin and nose. The narrow sides help prevent puckering when wearing.

No matter which pattern you choose, make sure to prewash your fabrics.

No-Sew Options

Not everyone is a sewer, and to be honest finding materials is getting harder by the day! There is an origami version using vacuum bags, as well as one using just a piece of fabric & rubber bands (you can use things like a scarf, t-shirt, bandanna, or small cloth/towel).

Ties or Straps?

Many patterns recommend ties for comfort, but there are some cons. In the medical field, ties are a hindrance as they take time to adjust. Often, medical professionals don't have the luxury of time, so the quicker they can get a mask on, the better. Ties also risk loosening over time, which again is of concern for medical professionals.

On the other hand, elastic straps can get very uncomfortable over time. Ties are a nice alternative to this, as they can be made with a softer material (knit/T-shirt material is a good suggestion).

I've actually been using nylon hair ties & headbands in my masks. They offer stretch like elastic, but are a bit softer on the ears. Wearing glasses, I find that pretty important, and I'm sure for people wearing masks hours at a time this will be appreciated. They do stretch out a bit, but you can stretch the fabric perpendicular to the length and they shrink up quite a bit. They will also shrink in the wash, so if you aren't wearing the same mask day after day without washing (which you shouldn't be anyway!), this will primarily self-correct.

Tips & Tricks

Regardless of which pattern you choose, it's been highly recommended to make the inside & outside a different color, even if your pattern doesn't really lend to wearing either way. This is a quick & easy visual for the wearer which side is "contaminated."

If sewing in your elastic or ties, bringing them in a centimeter or so from top & bottom helps create a more secure fit. This helps keep the side flat against the cheek instead of puckering (which reduces the seal & therefore efficacy).

Add an adjustable nose bridge! This is pretty critical to creating a good seal. You can easily test the seal by putting on a pair of glasses & seeing if they fog up. If your glasses fog up, the seal is not good. You can sew in a 3-inch 16g wire strip directly into the seams, attach a sleeve, tie it on, or even glue it in. You have so many options available to you, with the most accessible recommendations being pipe cleaners and twist ties. Personally, I have preferred using flat jewelry wire.

Make sure your elastic is even on both sides. You want the mask sitting centered and with a proper seal. You can also consider longer elastic and some adjusters, which allows the wearer to adjust to their comfort and corrects for uneven elastic.

Cotton thread is also highly recommended as it can hold up to high heats for cleaning (in the wash or an autoclave).

Use clips instead of pins. The idea of the masks is to filter out dangerous particles, so the fewer holes you create in the fabric, the more effective your masks will be.

Reinforce your stitches! Make sure you have strong stitches where your elastic or ties are attached (or if you are slipping through a channel, make sure the channel is reinforced). You also want to make sure the nose piece is well secured since it is such an integral part of an effective mask.

Add a valve if your mask feels too stuffy. I do not mean go out and make your own valve though, but RZ Masks was where I got this idea. The one-way valve doesn't let air in, but lets your hot breath out. Given the current situation, this is not ideal, but if you make your own masks for other applications in the future, the valve is pretty nifty.