Make Your Own Puppy Paw Balm

I found a great recipe over at Simple. Honest. Essential for puppy paw balm. I filed it away when I saw it, as we were about 2 months dog-less when that post was made. But now, we have a new puppy and she is experiencing her first winter. It has been pretty mild in the midwest with just 2 short snows that left a small dusting the first time, and only 1-2 inches that melted within a day the second time. However, Christmas Eve we got about 4 inches, and Christmas Day we were below freezing (Boxing Day we were sub-zero!).

So now, our little almost-5-month puppy has to go potty in sub-zero temps. She is not a fan, let me tell you. While this means she goes fast, it also means she does not want to be outside. In fact, the first sub-zero excursion had her trying to keep her little paws out of the snow, not wanting to squat, and eventually toppling over because she couldn't figure out how to balance herself to do her business and keep her feet up. Don't worry--she is fine, we were only outside a couple minutes and she got promptly picked up and carried back inside.

However, between the cold and salt I knew her little puppy paws were in for a shock. So I dug through my bookmarks to find this recipe and whip up some paw protection and soothing relief for her. It was super easy to make, and I had most of the ingredients on hand! Because I was feeling lazy, I opted to melt everything in a small glass dish in the microwave--it worked just fine but took a bit to cool down, so I waited until the dish was room temp to add the essential oils. Instead of chapstick tubes, which would probably make application easier, I just opted for a small 2 oz jar. As a bonus, this works well for your hands and smells great, so if you have to use a jar as well it's not a big deal making a little mess ;)


Luckily for me, Braxton seems completely unphased by the balm. I used 5 drops of each oil because essential oils are not new to my home and I figured the smell would not bother her. I was correct. She let me put it on, does not go after her paws after application, and frankly doesn't even seem to notice. I noticed though, as she was moving around a little better outside and whining less when we came back in. I've also noticed some rougher/chapped patches of her pads returning to normal. She doesn't really fight us playing with her paws, but I think she knows this is good stuff as she just sits there calmly any time I want to apply it.

Make Your Own Food Wraps

I'm sure you've seen these beeswax food wraps floating around. They are a great all-natural alternative to plastic wrap. I love them! They are perfect for wrapping up leftovers, snacks, sandwiches, etc. I have some by Bee's Wrap which I purchased through Mighty Nest and am quite happy with. However, they can get expensive if you want or need to have a lot on hand (I cook large batches and often have leftovers, so I find myself using multiple pieces per week). Making them yourself can get pricey too if you only want a few pieces, but the breakdown is fairly inexpensive and the effort is worth it if you want to stock up or give sets out to friends & family. A friend & I made a huge batch this spring for home & kitchen themed Easter baskets for a local charity. And now I am getting ready to make Christmas gift sets for friends & family.

Bees Wax Wraps
100% cotton fabric, cut to desired size
beeswax (pellets or grated)
pine tree rosin
jojoba oil

I took my inspiration from Mommypotamus, but ended up forgoing the exact measurements. I did generally follow her ratio however of 4 parts beeswax, 4 parts rosin, and 1 part oil. I would also recommend designating a cookie sheet and paint brush to this purpose only. You may need to experiment a bit with the ratio/measurements to find what works best for you. (For example, Goodful recommends a ratio of 8 parts beeswax, 4 parts rosin, and 1 part jojoba).

Preheat your oven to the lowest temp it will go (mine is 200F). Sprinkle on equal parts rosin (which I put in a shaker for easy dispensing), followed by the beeswax. I used a spray bottle to lightly spray the oil over the top. Pop into the oven until everything is melted. At this point I found it beneficial to use the paint brush and mix/distribute the melted ingredients and pop the cloth back in the oven. Check the back to make sure the fabric is fully saturated. Hang your saturated cloth to dry.

Now, you could just use beeswax, and it will work. The beeswax helps create a water resistant/air-tight seal, and it does have a bit of tack. However, the rosin really does help with the stick factor. The jojoba oil just helps everything blend together and soak into the fabric better.

Once dried, they are ready to use (or be stored, packaged, etc). The heat from your hands will mold the wrap over containers, bread, cheese, fruits & veggies, etc. You can also fold a wrap into a snack or sandwich bag (attach a button & string for cute and easy sealing). The wraps don't really stick to plastic containers though, and should not be used for wet foods or raw meats.

After use, your wraps will need to be washed. Don't use hot water as it will cause your coating to melt away. Instead, lightly wipe with soap and rinse in cold water. If over time you notice cracks or "thin" spots on your wrap, simply place on a parchment lined sheet in your oven set to its lowest temperature for a few minutes then redistribute the coating.

With proper care, your wraps can last up to 1 year. At that point you can just recoat them following the instructions above, or you can dispose of them. Since we are using natural ingredients, they are fully compostable. You can also cut down your old wraps to use as an effective fire starter (in fact, I save scraps from trimming my pieces down for this exact purpose).



One thing I do want to note, is that I found this process...messy. Definitely make sure to hang your pieces to dry, otherwise wherever you lay them will end up with beeswax & rosin dried on it. I also found I had wax and rosin stuck to my stove top and surrounding counter/floor which needed to be scraped up. This could just be me, but I do have grand plans of refining the process. I want to mix all the ingredients together and keep them liquid to either brush/pour onto the fabric, or dip the fabric into. In theory, this is brilliant, but as I have not yet tested it out I cannot recommend it ;)

Sore Muscle Soak

When you are sore, nothing beats a good soak or a hot shower, depending on what hurts. I've spent the last 3 months getting over a horrible sprained ankle. I'm used to sprained ankles...7 years in dance, 8 years in soccer, and I am also super clumsy. Weak ankles for life! But this was the mother of all sprains; like so bad, I wish I had just broken my ankle >.<

Not that I am the most fit or active person out there, but I am so not good at taking it easy. Three days at a music festival, 10 days walking around Europe, getting a new puppy...I was not sitting still. So, needs must and I had to find ways to deal with the soreness & pain (in addition to medical attention, including 2 months in a boot and physical therapy which I am still doing). This foot soak was great, but don't think that's all it is. This soak is great for easing sore muscles anywhere in your body. Don't have or want to take a bath? Grab a handful of the salts and massage into the sore spot while in the shower. You can also sprinkle an handful onto the floor of the shower to enjoy the aromatherapy benefits for a relaxing pick-me-up.

Sore Muscle Soak

1 cup epsom salt
2 Tbsp baking soda
10-20 drops essential oils of choice*
(plus 2-4 Tbsp carrier**)
2 tsp dried chamomile
2 tsp dried lavender
1 tsp dried rosemary

Mix everything together in a large container to make sure it all gets evenly dispersed. I tend to start with the epsom salt and essential oils (diluted in carrier of choice). This gets the oils distributed a bit better as the baking soda tends to clump once hit with moisture. After you have mixed the salt & oils well, add in the baking soda and dried herbs. If dried herbs aren't your thing, you can leave them out as you are still getting the benefits from the oils themselves.

Use 1/2-1 cup for a foot bath, or 1-2 cups for a full bath. Let everything dissolve well before hopping in (I personally like to wait 10-15 minutes to give the herbs time to "steep").

The recipe as listed above is for 1 or 2 uses. I like to make a large batch in advance, typically quadrupling the amounts above (resulting in about 4.5 cups of soak). If you decide to make a large batch, make sure to store your soak in an airtight glass container.

After a good soak, I sometimes like to apply trauma oil (an infused oil blend of calendula, arnica, and st. john's wort) to the sore spots. While treating my ankle, I would dry off and apply trauma oil along my peroneal tendon. This is also a good time for any other pedicure treatment ;)

*I tend to favor lavender, eucalyptus, chamomile, rosemary, and peppermint in equal parts. Chamomile reduces inflammation and pain; it also has calming & soothing properties. Lavender reduces pain & tension; it also has anti-inflammatory and sedative properties, relieving stress & anxiety. Eucalpytus is known to relive nerve pain and blocked sinuses; it also possesses anti-oxidant & anti-inflammatory properties. Peppermint is an anti-spasmodic and natural decongestant; it is known to aid in stomach cramps and arthritis; it also possesses anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and anti-fungal properties. Rosemary is great for chronic pain and inflammation; it is also known to help blood flow and relive muscle pain/spasms. You could also add tea tree if you are suffering from ringworm/athlete's foot, as it possesses anti-fungal properties and is a common treatment for this condition. Don't feel limited to my suggestions though! Use oils you want/need the benefits of, or if using the herbs feel free to use any oils you like the scent of ;)

I also tend to go heavy on the essential oils when making a big batch of this herbal salt soak, to accommodate for different dilution levels. If you are making a single batch and plan to use it immediately as a foot soak you aren't using much water, but if you are hopping into a full bath your soak will be diluted quite a bit more due to the quantity of water.

**EDIT December 4, 2017: I am not an expert on home remedies, essential oils, herbalism, etc, so I am constantly researching and improving my knowledge base. This includes learning from specialists and updating my practices based on new safety information. According to Clinical Certified Aromatherapist Lea Harris, using essential oils in bath salts can be a risk of skin irritation or worse adverse reactions. Very few essential oils are approved for neat use, and unless you are also a specialist you may not know which oils those are. Almost all essential oils should be diluted, and bath salts are no exception. Lea recommends using 1 Tbsp of carrier (carrier oil, fatty milk, castille soap, or other surfactant) per 5 drops of essential oil. The purpose is two-fold. 1) The oils will separate and float on top of your bath, putting them in direct contact with your skin. Diluting them before adding to your salts also means that the droplets floating on your water will now be diluted. 2) If you choose to use this salt as a massaging scrub, you are directly putting oils onto your skin in a stronger amount than in your bath. For this use you absolutely want diluted essential oils.

Make Your Own Stock & Broth

Last night I was making pot pies and realized I was out of chicken stock. In all honesty, this was store bought chicken stock, but regardless I did not have enough for the recipe. However, I had a ton of veggie scraps saved in the freezer for making my own stock, and I often sub veggie stock for chicken, so I decided to just make my own instead of running across the street to the store. I knew it had been a while since I last made any, after all I had been picking it up from the store the last few times I needed it, but I did not quite realize how long until I was packing up the finished stock and ended up with 7 quarts!

Stock is so easy to make, I don't know why I put it off for so long. Now I have to figure out what to do with it all...

So, how do you make your own stock?

It's really simple. I'm not even sure I can make an official recipe post about it. Basically, throw a bunch of veggies into a pot. Fill your pot with water, such that it sits about 1-2 inches above all the "stuff." Bring to a boil, then let simmer 30-60 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer (or cheesecloth/flour sack towel), and store or use. That's it!

You don't even need to go out and buy veggies for this. In fact, my favorite method is to save all sorts of clean veggie scraps in the freezer until I am ready to make my stock. And I do mean all sorts...try to keep the 3 core veggies (onion family, carrot, celery), but beyond that you can save whatever you like. Things I like to use include:

• onion/shallot/garlic skin and ends
• root veggie (carrot, potato, sweet potato, parsnip, etc) and squash peels, tops, and greens
• celery leaves and tops
• sage/parsley/other herb stems
• mushroom stems
• pepper tops and cores
• corn cobs
• pea/bean pods
• any leftover or about to spoil fresh veggies (carrots, celery, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, etc)

A word of caution though: veggies in the cabbage family (cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli cauliflower) can add bitterness so use sparingly.

Used veggies can be thrown out or composted, if that's your thing. I am not good with plants, so fully admit to discarding my used veggies. Next spring I intend to give composting & gardening a go though.

What about meat stocks?

mmmm...beautiful, golden chicken stock

Add some meat and/or bones if you want a meat stock (pork, beef, poultry, fish); the bones will create a thicker stock while meat just adds flavor, more like a broth. You will need to up your simmer time to 3-6 hours. If you are using bones, make sure you get back to a simmer as boiling bones will create a cloudy stock (not that it matters for taste, just looks). Once everything has cooked down, skim off the fat if desired. Fat can also contribute to a cloudy stock, but it can help with refrigerated storage as well (read on for more details on that).

Much like the veggie stock, you don't need to go out and buy meat or bones for your meat stock. Use roast bones or fish/poultry carcasses. You can use them fresh or freeze for a later date. Cartilage, skin, and gristle are also good additions to your stock. Meat pieces can be added for additional flavor (or if there is still some stuck to the bone). For a deeper color and richer flavor, roast your bones before adding to your pot. Simply rub with olive oil and bake at 375F for 30-45 minutes, turning halfway.

Bones can be reused at least 1 more time, or until they start to break apart. Edible meat pieces that may remain can be added to stews.

If making a meat stock, you may want to consider adding some acid to help break down the bones and cartilage. You won't taste the acid in the stock, but it will add a depth of meat flavor. Choose an acid that will compliment your meat. Some ideas include vinegar, lemon juice, tomato products, and wine (red wine would be a good choice for beef).

Wait, what is the difference between stock and broth?
The terms seem pretty interchangeable, but there is a subtle difference. Simply put, broth is seasoned and stock is not. Technically speaking broth is any liquid that has had meat cooked in it (although this definition has been expanded to include non-meat variations), while stock involves bones (or cartilage/skin) making it thicker due to the gelatin being extracted.

So looking at the meat stock above, using the bones makes a stock and using the meat alone technically makes a broth. I generally don't use meat pieces alone and follow the seasoned/not seasoned rule of thumb. If you are looking to make a seasoned broth, common spices to include are bay leaf, parsley, thyme, garlic, salt, pepper/peppercorn, and clove.

You can even take things a step farther and turn your stock or broth into a concentrate. Reduce into an extra flavorful liquid that you can use as is or dilute at a rate of 1 Tbsp concentrate to 2 cups water.

So, how do I store my homemade stock?
There is some debate into the methodology of storing and preserving stocks and broths. I've seen people favor canning and say it is unsafe, and I've seen various time frames said to be refrigerator safe. However, I've done a lot or research and put together a few different methods for you to consider:

1. Refrigerating
• Seal well and store safely 3-4 days in the refrigerator
• Leave a 1/2 inch head of rendered fat sitting atop each jar, and refrigerate 6 months unopened/untampered. If the fat is punctured, you revert to the 3-4 days above.
2. Freezing
• Leave 1 inch head space in upright containers, or transfer to bags for flat storage, and freeze 3-4 months. The stock will not go bad after this time, but the flavor may seem a bit off.
• Pour concentrate into an ice cube tray for future use as is or for easy dilution. Once frozen you can transfer concentrate cubes into another container. Using the ice cube tray also gives you convenient 1 Tbsp increments.
3. Canning (Room Temp Storage)
• Pressure can pint jars at 10 lbs for 20 minutes (quart jars for 25, and I would guess 8 oz jars for about 15), adjusting as needed for high altitudes
• You cannot safely process stocks using the boiling water method, although I have seen anecdotal posts by people saying this is the method they use without issue (I would not feel comfortable recommending this method)

I feel like this post got away from me a bit...you now have more information about making your own stocks & broths than you probably wanted to know. They are so easy though, and so cheap if you use scraps and leftovers. Plus, they just taste better than store bought. Once you figure out the preservation & storage, there really isn't any reason not to make your own.

Quick & Simple Dog Treats

After loosing my best friend & pup Jenny early this summer, it took a while to feel ready to add a new furry friend to the mix. We went on vacation during the middle of October, and when we got back we felt ready. We scoped out the local shelters and fell in love with a beautiful terrier/hound mutt. At not even 3 months, we wanted some treats that would be healthier & not full of grain/filler. So we decided to go back to a few of the treats Jenny liked. These 1-ingredient recipes are so simple, and your dog will just love them.

Hot Dog Training Treats

Cut up 1 pack of hot dogs into bite-sized pieces. This may vary depending on the age and size of your dog. Jenny was a min pin, and we would slice the hot dogs on half lengthwise them chop them into half moons. For the puppy we split the hot dogs in quarters lengthwise, leaving us with about pea-sized pieces after chopping up the quarters.

After you've cut up your hot dogs, spread them out in a single layer and bake at 375 for 30-45 minutes. They will be dark in color, but not burnt. Store in the refrigerator, and they will last a while.

Now I know the healthiness of hot dogs may be questionable, but there are some good ones out there. And even the "bad" ones are still all meat/protein.

Sweet Potato Jerky Dog Chews

Slice up sweet potatoes, with your pieces about 1/4 inch thick. Choose a size as you see fitting to your dog (I usually cut them on half or thirds lengthwise, and for the puppy we have been cutting these pieces in half to shorten them up).

Bake at the lowest temp your oven will go for about 3-4 hours. You want the pieces dry, buy not burnt. They will be pretty hard/solid, but also have some chew. I usually flip them 1/2 - 3/4 of the way through.

Sweet potatoes are a great, healthy snack for dogs and humans. This jerky can be cut down into bite-sized treats, but I like to use it as a chew or rawhide replacement.

What are your favorite dog treats to make at home? What about ones specifically aimed at growing puppies?

Homemade Bug Bite Soother

Even though summer is almost over, we are still going to have mosquitoes around for a while in the Midwest. We are on the brink of prime bonfire weather, and I always find I get the most bits while sitting around a fire with my friends.

Roll-On Bug Bite Soother

10 drops lavender essential oil

10 drops thyme essential oil

10 drops tea tree essential oil

10 drops eucalyptus essential oil

10 drops peppermint essential oil

10 drops chamomile essential oil

10 drops basil essential oil

1 1/2 tsp fractionated coconut oil (or other carrier)

First add your essential oils to a 10 ml roller ball bottle. It should be about 1/4 full. Top off your bottle with the fractionated coconut oil. This will be about 1 1/2 tsp. Shake well to mix and keep on hand for immediate relief!

This is a fairly strong dilution, and those of you familiar with essential oils will be aware that normally recommended dilutions range from 0.25%-3%. However, it is typically considered acceptable to use neat oils in a few instances, bug bites & stings being some of those. I've also personally found that I rarely need to reapply this soother at the 25% dilution (accepting for washing, etc). If you are wanting a more diluted blend, here are some general guidelines:

**Please note, this table shows the total amount of essential oils to use per 10 ml roller ball bottle.**

DIY Dry Shampoo

I've been playing with color in my hair, and I'm talking stuff like blue/green/purple. I get the irony of using this kind of hair dye vs my other decisions to go more natural, but there you have it. In an effort to preserve the color I have been on a hunt to find the best solution. (You can read my previous post here where I discuss it.) Anyway, I've found straight up corn starch to be very good, but there was some room for improvement as I have very thick, oily hair (even after getting myself down to washing my hair 2x per week, it was starting to feel a little gross by day 3).

So this recipe is based off my personal experience and catered to my hair. Naturally, I have a rather light brown hair color, so that was my goal. This dry shampoo does still start a bit light, but I find it fades in very quickly and does not leave that greying hair look like straight up cornstarch. This also fades in very well with my current blue & purple hair.

DIY Dry Shampoo (Light Brown Hair)

2/3 c cornstarch (or arrowroot powder)
1/3 c nutmeg, finely ground

20-45 drops essential oils (optional)

Feel free to substitute the nutmeg as you see fit, based on your hair color. Cinnamon  and cocoa are good for darker hair colors, and red clay is good for redheads. You can also play with the ratio of cornstarch to color as well, for example blondes may benefit from all cornstarch.

Mix all your ingredients together. If using essential oils, you will want to mix everything in a large bowl with a whisk, making sure the oils get distributed and don't clump up (as they are going to want to do, since the cornstarch's purpose is to absorb). I usually add 15 drops each lemongrass, rosemary and lavender. Most recipes suggest about 5 drops essential oil per 1/4 cup, which is about half of what I do. I really enjoy the scent though and added more to make that stronger. I also personally feel the extra oils add some benefit, as after doubling them I notice my hair felt so much cleaner! Store in an airtight container.

To use, either sprinkle (using an old salt shaker or similar), or dust (using an old makeup brush), the powder onto your hair. Focus on your roots, although if you notice the length of your hair is starting to feel oily, feel free to apply there as well. You will benefit from a light hand, as I found when starting on dry shampoo that my hair would feel dirty later on in the day due to excess build-up of product (plus too much, and you can't brush it all out so it starts to look like you have dandruff). I usually work the dry shampoo into my scalp a little bit and let it sit a few minutes before brushing it through my hair. This also works really well if you apply before bed--you will wake up with fresh & clean feeling hair. Afterwards style as usual.

A little bit about the essential oils that I chose:

Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. Rosemary is said to be good for people with oily hair as it helps control sebum production. Lavender is good for people with mixed skin types and moisturizes dry skin. All 3 are known to sooth irritated/itchy scalps which will reduce dandruff. They are also said to have properties that will promote hair health & growth.

DIY Disinfectant Wipes

As part of my move to green living, I am trying to get away from disposable items. For example, we have a basket of rags and washcloths that we use instead of napkins and paper towels. However, sometimes you just need something with a little more cleaning power. Instead of picking up those Clorox or Lysol wipes, I decided to take a stab at making my own. These work great, and once you use up the container, wash the rags and make a new solution!

DIY Disinfectant Wipes

6 flour sack towels, cut down into quarters
4 c distilled water
1 c vinegar
1 c alcohol
20 drops essential oils (optional)

If you do not have distilled water on hand, just boil 4 cups and allow it to cool. The essential oils are not required, but they will improve the disinfecting power of your solution. My default is 5 drops each of lemon, peppermint, tea tree, and rosemary. All 4 of these have antibacterial properties, but you could use any oils of your choice that have disinfecting properties, or that you enjoy the scent of.

Stuff your 24 cloth pieces into an air tight jar. Combine all your liquid ingredients, and pour over the towels. Allow the solution to soak into the towels. Keep your container well-sealed to keep the cloths damp in between uses.

For a neat dispensing feature similar to the commercial wipes or tissues, lay out your cloths in a line with the ends slightly overlapping. Make sure you overlap the same way with each piece (for example, always set the next piece to the left and on top). You will now have a makeshift strip that you should fold in half lengthwise. Stuff this strip into your container, starting with the sole cloth that was not tucked into another (for example, the right most piece). Now when you pull out your cloths, the next one will be tucked inside and pop up for easy grabbing next time.

Grab a towel as needed to wipe down counter tops and more. Do note, you need to leave the surface wet for at least 10 minutes in order for the solution to truly disinfect. After 10 minutes you can air dry or wipe up (for a streak-free finish).

I keep my wipes on the counter next to my sink, along with my basket of dry rags/napkins and homemade dishwasher detergent. What I love about all of this, is that I can just toss everything into a hamper and wash it all once full. I keep a hamper under my counter for used wipes, rags/napkins, and towels. It's convenient for everyone, saves some money, and is generally more eco-friendly (minus the laundry, but I can get by with washing all of this every 2-4 weeks, depending on how active we've been--we are only 3 adults though, so if you have little ones, you can probably expect to do the wash more frequently).

Homemade Laundry & Dishwasher Soap

A good friend of mine has been making her own laundry soap for years, and she always spoils me with a batch. Recently she hosted a green cleaning seminar with Clean Mama herself. Feeling revitalized, and having won her Simply Clean book in a raffle, I went home and set about getting supplies to make my own cleaners! Since both the laundry & dishwasher soap contain similar ingredients, I started with a batch of each.

DIY Laundry Soap

1 bar Fels-Naptha soap (or castille soap)*
2 c borax
1 c washing soda
1 c Oxyclean (or more washing soda)
1 c baking soda
30 drops essential oil (optional)

Make sure to finely grate or chop your soap. I found that freezing it for 30-60 minutes and using a food processor to be very effective, but you could use a grater or other method. Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump. My personal preference for essential oils are lavender and sandalwood, but choose whatever you enjoy the scent of or find relaxing (a great choice for bedding).

Use 1 Tbsp per load. This recipe is great for top load, front load, and HE washers (I've actually tested it in all 3). For a simple, green fabric softener use vinegar in the washer as you would liquid fabric softener, or add some wool balls to your dryer (either option can be scented using essential oils as well!)

*If you are looking to create a vegan soap, be careful which bar you choose. Both Fels-Naptha and Zote use tallow, but castille bars by definition are 100% vegetable oil (typically olive oil). Some verified vegan brands of castille soap are Dr. Bronner, Kirk's, and Mrs. Meyer's. All other ingredients are mineral-based, but you may want to dig into which brands are cruelty-free.

DIY Dishwasher Soap

1 c borax (or baking soda)
1 c washing soda
1/2 c kosher salt
1/2 c citric acid
20 drops essential oil (optional)

Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump. My personal preference for essential oils in this application is citrus, such as lemon, grapefruit, or a blend. I currently am using a cleansing blend of lemon, clove, eucalyptus, and rosemary.

I've also seen recipes floating around that add castille soap. If you are concerned about the lack of soap vs cleaning agent, feel free to add about 1/4 cup finely grated castille soap (sorry, I'm not sure how that translates into bars as I don't add it myself). Make sure you grab castille soap, you do not want a soap that suds in this mixture!

Something you will want to note is that the citric acid will attract moisture and may cause your soap to clump (or if you are really unlucky, fuse into 1 large block). This won't hurt anything, but it can be annoying and may make it harder for your soap to dissolve. Two good tips I've found are to leave your soap in a large, uncovered bowl for a couple days to let it dry out (make sure to stir it periodically to help break up any clumps), and to make a desiccant to keep in your container to absorb any excess moisture (for example powdered clay or dry rice in an empty tea bag, pantyhose, or sock).

Use 1 Tbsp per load. For a simple rinse agent, use white vinegar.

Now, there are some arguments against using Borax. I'm still working my way through the data, but as yet have not come across concrete examples of Borax actually being harmful (just some arguments that it could be). I encourage you to do your own digging as well. Crunchy Betty does a great job of collecting the arguments for both sides. That being said, I am looking into alternate solutions out of curiosity. In the meantime, I've been using laundry soap with Borax for years and have no complaints.

Blog Rebrand & Revamp

Hey there, loyal followers! I've been getting involved in a few different side projects, which has allowed me to centralized certain interests elsewhere. As part of a revitalized attempt to keep my side projects active, I am also revising my blog & website.

Let's be honest, this is a personal blog, it is a condensed version of all my previous blogs, and it has evolved over time. A few common themes have always been prevalent: poetry, crafting, DIY (whether that be baking/cooking, or other). With my new projects, I am able to retain a more home-centered approach. There will still be crafting & shop updates. And there are likely to be personal posts here & there. However, I am branching out to some other sites, as follows:

My Dairy-Free Adventure: a focus on DF recipes & reviews. This will not be a new home for all my recipes, but allergy-friendly ideas will move or be cross-posted.

Drink.Smoke.Games: a focus on board games, video games, and alcoholic beverages. This site will house my reviews, etc and is part of an effort to start an online presence/community of gamers. This also allows me to keep Handmade by Caitlin more family-friendly.

Movie, Knit, Dye!: a focus on knitting & horror movies. This will not take away from Handmade by Caitlin at all, but if you are interested in hand dyed yarns, or 2 goofballs commenting on horror movies MST3K style, please check it out. While our goal is to build a following for our video podcast, you can also expect to see some random things about out current listening recommendations (podcasts & movies).

So...we know some stuff is moving to these other locations. What will remain at Handmade by Caitlin? I've been getting back to my roots, as it were, with natural solutions. I feel this really compliments the DIY attitude and am going more towards that focus. You can still expect shop info to be posted here, free patterns, recipes, wellness & fitness info, and personal updates. Mostly, you can expect an update to the DIY & wellness/fitness info: natural health support, green cleaning, eco-friendly ideas, on occasion a brief foray into ancient beliefs (anthro major here, plus it is fascinating to see how old natural remedies and crafts were so societal and religion-focused).

So sit for a spell, check out the new features, and let me know what you want to see!

What is a fair price for handmade items?

I've touched on this before, but it's time for a quick update Handmade items are a labor of love, and you should never question or try to haggle a price. Each crafter moves at a different speed, and materials are not as cheap as you would think. You aren't just paying for materials, but their time and effort. Let's break some things down...

That beautiful wool shawl that is safe to put in your washer? The yarn probably cost $50 minimum. That acrylic baby blanket made to for a standard crib? Even cheap yarn has a cost it it was probably around $15-20.

Not to mention tools and supplies (consider the maintenance of needing to replace needles, the cost of that stuffing even though 1 bag will make multiple plush toys, the price of the pattern, etc). This may be stuff that is "on hand" or "the cost of doing business" or an initial investment that can be spread across multiple products. But just because I can reuse that pattern or tool, doesn't mean you shouldn't consider it in to the material cost. If you wanted to make the thing you bought, you would need the materials (yarn) AND supplies (pattern, needles, etc).

I'm currently making a shrug, a half sweater, for myself and I chose some gorgeous hand dyed yarn in a super long gradient. I spent over $150 on the yarn, plus I bought the pattern and needed new circular knitting needles in the correct size. Overall quite the hefty investment, and it's a treat for myself so I don't mind.

I'm still working on it, and it took me a couple hours to get just half a sleeve. But let's look at this as an example. How do determine your cost of such an item. Just the yarn was about $160, the pattern was $7, and the needles were $16. Now estimating the time it would take...2 hours for half a sleeve, we will be conservative and say 4 hours per sleeve, plus the actual back. Let's estimate that at another 4 hours. So 12 hours total work (and I honestly think it will be more). What is a fair hourly rate for my craft?

I make over $20/hr at my day job. It doesn't sound unreasonable to charge that for my craft, as it is still work. Sure, I can take it with me, work while hanging out with friends or watching a movie. But you know what--I have a highly digital job and work from home. I get many of those same benefits, but I don't get paid less because I can work in the comfort of my own home with flexible hours and my chosen environment/background. I get paid a fair wage because I am performing a highly skilled task.

So let's assume $20/hr is a fair rate, plus of course the materials. We are looking at $240 for time and $160 for materials, which brings us to $400 for a shrug. Half of a sweater, out of an 80% wool blend. That's not particularly fancy yarn. It's nice, and comfortable, and I love it. And of course part of the cost comes from the fact that someone took the time to dye it by hand! I have to account for her materials and time and artistry. I don't know how to dye a large quantity of yarn in 1 repeat of a gradient (not yet, MKD will be venturing into yarn dying, but that's another post for another day). It's gorgeous, but I paid for the knowledge, expertise, hours of work, and materials.

Anyway, I'm getting off topic. Back to the point: At a fair hourly wage we are looking at a $400 shrug, and that didn't even account for the supplies I needed to get started like my pattern and needles. Is it fair to account for the full price of such supplies? Who knows. I may not ever make the pattern again that I bought for your product. That is more of a personal decision to the crafter, if they want that supply investment to be cost of business or be reflected back on their customer. But either case is completely reasonable.

Now let's say I make the same item out of cheap yarn. And I don't say that with any prejudice. I prefer cheap (acrylic/man-made) yarn for baby items because it is sturdy, holds up well to repeated washing, won't felt or accidentally shrink, avoids a lot of allergy issues you might have with natural fibers, won't fade in the wash, etc. If you get a good brand it is super soft too, but even if you get the scratchy, stiff stuff, it will soften up after a few washes just fine. Anyway, with cheap yarn I would be spending about $20 on materials, but if I charged an hourly rate this would still be a $260 shrug.

Some people are willing to pay that price, sure, but your average person won't especially when the materials you are using aren't considered special. So a while back I did some research to learn how other yarn crafters price their items. Many recommend an equation of (materials + supplies) x3. I finagle that a little bit, but generally it is a pattern I follow. So now that shrug made out of acrylic is $60, which means I am only making $40 for about 12 hours of work (that's less than $4/hour). This is where some judgement calls are made, and honestly I would probably adjust the charge to $80-100 (giving me a profit of $60-80, or $5-7 per hour).

You want it out of that fancy yarn I talked about? I'm not going to charge you $480, that's even more than if I charged an hourly rate of $20. But it's going to be expensive because the yarn is.  You would still be looking at $240-$260, and that is with my hourly rate well below minimum wage. But I accept that because I find knitting fun and relaxing, I like having new and unique projects to work on, and I actually do take into consideration I can work on your product while watching netflix, Chilling in bed, or over coffee with friends.

Using a basic 3x material/supplies equation, my take home is about 65% of the price you see. If I am listed on etsy I actually price up everything 10%, but I don't see any of that--it all goes to covering my etsy and paypal fees. If you order a gift set or a lot of items, I will often offer a discount. Usually sets all come from the same yarn, and I do not always need to go out and buy more. As such I will usually offer about 20% off (not always as there are certain other considerations, like if I actually do need more yarn to accommodate, is there an upcharge for the type of work being done, etc). However that 20% discount for you is a 30% loss of sales for me, because I am still paying the same price for materials and supplies. If you supply your own materials/supplies, I will often offer a 35% discount. This actually does not cut into my income, but gives you freedom to pick whatever materials you want and only pay for labor (which again is well below minimum wage).

Finally, I want you to consider time in a different way, not as billable hours. Say you decide a price is too high and that you can buy the materials and learn how to make the item yourself. How many hours are you actually going to invest to learn the craft and then make your item? How much is your time worth? If it take me 12 hours to make that shrug, how long will it take you to learn to knit, purl, and cable? Not to mention the time to learn to knit flat vs in the round, and picking up stitches, plus whatever personalization you may have wanted (for example I wanted longer sleeves with thumb holes...how long will it take you to learn to alter a pattern, understand how to lengthen a sleeve, and figure out a thumb hole?). I would bet a good deal more than 12 hours, plus your craft time could be very different from mine. Just think about the other benefits of paying an artisan. It's not just materials and hours. It's knowledge, skill, problem solving, and more.

So, if you are buying handmade, consider why the prices are so high and what you are actually paying for. There is a value artisans offer to you, and it is more than just the cost of supplies. Even if you see a price you think is too high, they might not be making a livable hourly wage off their craft. And if you are family or a close friend, and you think you deserve a special discount, I'm sorry you don't. It's either a gift or a purchase. You aren't any more special than another customer and you are taking away time from more lucrative projects if you are requesting a deep discount.

Apologies as this turned into more of a rant than I intended. I just often find myself negotiating prices and allowing certain people to guilt me into discounts, and I've seen friends and fellow artisans posting how they barely make any profit on their products. I felt it was time to re-address the situation and make sure people understand the WHY behind high prices for artisan products. Certainly some crafts lend themselves better to fair prices where the artisan makes a fair profit and the customer feels the high price is reasonable (leather craft for example seems to lend itself well to fair prices), but that is not universal. And regardless, don't question a person's worth. You don't know what is going into your product, and if you want something cheap go buy it elsewhere.

The Greatest Love Song

Such a good and amusing song. If you don't understand sarcasm and irony, this may not be the song for you ;) Lyrics below the video

I hope that our few remaining friends
Give up on trying to save us
I hope we come out with a fail-safe plot
To piss off the dumb few that forgave us

I hope the fences we mended
Fall down beneath their own weight
And I hope we hang on past the last exit
I hope it's already too late

And I hope the junkyard a few blocks from here
Someday burns down
And I hope the rising black smoke carries me far away
And I never come back to this town again in my life

I hope I lie
And tell everyone you were a good wife
And I hope you die
I hope we both die

I hope I cut myself shaving tomorrow
I hope it bleeds all day long
Our friends say it's darkest before the sun rises
We're pretty sure they're all wrong

I hope it stays dark forever
I hope the worst isn't over
And I hope you blink before I do
And I hope I never get sober

And I hope when you think of me years down the line
You can't find one good thing to say
And I'd hope that if I found the strength to walk out
You'd stay the hell out of my way

I am drowning
There is no sign of land
You are coming down with me
Hand in unlovable hand

And I hope you die
I hope we both die