My Hair Care Routine

As part of a transition to a more natural/green lifestyle, I've not only begun making chemical-free cleaning products & toiletries, I have adjusted the way I live. This includes a transition to more sustainable household items (such as slowly phasing out plastics for glass, ceramic, and metal), and adjusting my habits.

No-poo is a huge movement, and believe me I have made a good effort to follow this, but there are a few things that get in my way. My hair is super oily, even after months I was not able to go more than 3 days or so without an actual wash (dry shampoo only does so much, and eventually you will get build-up). I also found the baking soda method too abrasive for my scalp, and drying/damaging to my hair. So I experimented with making my own products and have a routine I can rely on.

This routine allows me to wash my hair 1-2 times per week. You'll notice it's not an exact schedule, as there are different factors going into how many days I can follow each step. Generally speaking though, I wash my hair every 3-4 days. However I have also found that if I need to wash a few days in a row, getting back into this routine is easy ad I don't need to readjust.

Day 1: Wash with homemade shampoo and conditioner

If I have the patience I'll let my hair air dry, but on particularly cold days or if I have somewhere to be early I have broken out my blow dryer (I always leave it damp/air-dry for a little bit even when I blow dry). I also am bad and will towel dry/scrub instead of t-shirt dry/squeeze. It's suppose to be damaging to your hair if you scrub it with a towel, but I haven't had problems and am an impatient person who likes my damp hair to still feel somewhat dried.







Day 2-4: Brush hair/Rinse with water

L: Dry Brush; R: Rinse & Brush

If you have a boar bristle brush, this can help you more evenly distribute sebum and oils. Some naturalists also recommend brushing thoroughly, with your head upright then upside down a couple times for proper oil distribution. I'm lazy so this doesn't normally happen--most of the time I just use my paddle brush lol. Usually my hair is still clean enough to leave down without feeling oily or heavy. If I am particularly active on this day, I may need to put it up.


Most days I still rinse my hair with water while I shower. I'll usually give it a quick brush before hopping in the shower. I saturate my hair and massage my scalp a bit, then rinse again.

Sometimes I can go up to 3 days only brushing and rinsing my hair. Other times I can only go a day or two. A lot of depends on how active I am, what the weather is like (and if I'm out in said weather), etc. I've found the farther I get into this habit, and the less I rely on dry shampoo, that it is much easier to push 2 or 3 days. Over the hot holiday weekend I was able to last a full 3 days, and we were out in the heat each day.


Day 3/4/5/6: Dry shampoo

In all honesty, I normally apply the dry shampoo the night before. I use a makeup brush to apply directly to my roots (in parts/lines about 1-2 inches apart along the front/sides, and also from my crown down to nape). Normally I'll work it in a little bit with my finger tips, and then I leave my hair down and go to bed. This allows the dry shampoo to collect all kinds of oils and evenly distribute itself. In the morning, I just brush my hair and style as usual.

I usually don't rinse my hair when using dry shampoo. I find that the oil build up still weighs down my hair. If I am on day 3 or 4, sometimes I'll still give it a try.

I also normally only do this 1 day, but sometimes I can pull off 2 days in a row. I tend to find the build up of 2 applications on top of my hair's oils to be too much. This is usually when I try giving my hair a rinse. I haven't found applying at night and rinsing or rinsing in the morning and applying when dry to be more effective than the other.

Also, sometimes I completely skip the dry shampoo day and move on to washing. Usually this will be if I'm pushing 3 days with no product.


Spot Treatment: Spritz with hair refresher

L: Before; R: After

If on any day my hair seems stringy, dry, lackluster, dull, or just looks heavy and lifeless, I will use my homemade refresher spray to give some life back to my hair. In fact, I use this most days where I'm not actually washing my hair. This conditions my hair which gives some shine and body back without having to get your hair completely wet. The brief dampness can also help with any specific styling needs.



Swimming: Water is your friend

My workout of choice is swimming. I frankly hate the gym, running (arbitrarily, I'm fine taking the dog out or if I have a destination, same with biking). Swimming is a great full body workout, and I supplement it with yoga. However that chlorine... Wetting your hair before swimming fills your hair up with water, leaving little room for chlorinated water to soak in. I also find that tying my hair back helps keep everything tight and protected against chlorine, or if you are up to it a swim cap will offer lots of protection. If you swim regularly, like I do, you may want to use a DIY conditioner to revitalize your locks.

I am still a newbie to a more natural hair care routine. I've only been trying this out for a little over 1 year and I went through a few different attempts before I found this system which I am happy with. Lucy over at Happy Hair has all kinds of advice, so if you don't find answer here check our her 5-year FAQ. I am particularly interested in checking out soap nuts myself n_~

DIY Hair Conditioner

So we've already covered a spray-in conditioner, but to go with my shampoo recipe, I wanted a conditioner to use in the shower as part of my routine. Apple Cider Vinegar is a great conditioner just on it's own, but you can also infuse it with herbs to get all kinds of extra benefits. Today's post will consist of 3 different options for you, each improving on the one before it.

ACV Hair Rinse
2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 qt water

Mix these together at the time of your shower and just pour over your hair after rinsing out your shampoo. I've seen other bloggers recommend equal parts ACV and water (at 1/4 cup to 2/3 cup each, depending on the length and thickness of your hair), but you really don't need that much ACV. I also find diluting it in a quart of water gives you ample liquid to fully saturate your hair.

You don't need to rinse this out either. You can follow-up with an all water rinse if desired, but it's not necessary. Don't worry if you smell a bit like ACV, it will dissipate quickly (and frankly, you are the only one who will notice until it does).

ACV Herbal Hair Rinse

1 quart apple cider vinegar (the kind with the mother)
1 cup herbs of choice (Wellness Mama has a great herb combo)
water

Combine herbs and vinegar in a large jar and secure cover. Infuse for about 4 weeks in a cool, dark place. Shake every other day or so, then strain through cheesecloth.

When you are ready to use your herbal rinse, dilute approximately 2 Tbsp infused vinegar in 1 quart water (or whatever ratio works best for you, up to equal parts). You can leave in as your final rinse or follow with an all-water rinse.

I have found that this has a very herby/earthy scent. If you want something a little more pleasing, you could add essential oils to your finished product. Personally, I have not tried this out but would say 45-50 drops of scents pleasing to you (or complimentary to the herbs you choose) should be sufficient. I would likely use equal parts lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary as they are all beneficial to hair and would be inline with the herbs I use as well as the scent for my dry shampoo.



What herbs do I use?
Wellness Mama and I actually have a lot of overlap between the herbs I prefer and what she recommends (I pretty much just sub lemongrass for basil). I will let you visit her blog for her recommendations & amounts, or you can peruse this list and decide which herbs and how much of each you want to use:

Horsetail strengthens your hair and also can help control oily hair thanks to its astringent properties.

Nettle is full of vitamins and minerals that will nourish and improve scalp health, as well as make your hair stronger and more vibrant.

Basil nourishes your scalp, promotes hair growth, and helps remove toxins and heavy metals.

Lavender is great for mixed skin types and will moisturize dry skin as well as calm inflammation. This also aids in controlling dandruff. It increases circulation which promotes hair health and growth.

Rosemary helps control sebum production, especially beneficial for oily hair and to aid in controlling dandruff from dry and itchy scalps. It also affects circulation promoting hair health and growth. It's slightly astringent properties strengthen hair follicles which helps prevent hair loss.

Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. It also soothes irritated and itchy scalps helping to reduce dandruff, as well as promotes general hair health and growth.

Slippery Elm Bark stimulates hair growth, softens hair (provides slip and glide), and soothes the scalp.

Marshmallow Root has the same benefits as slippery elm, but also adds shine to lackluster locks.

ACV Cream Rinse

2 Tbsp coconut oil
2 Tbsp shea or cocoa butter
1 Tbsp beeswax (or BTMS-50 emulsifying wax)

1/2 c apple cider vinegar (raw or infused)
1/2 c water
1/2 c coconut milk
1/2 - 1 tsp xanthum gum (depending on desired consistency)




For those of you that prefer a cream rinse, I did some experimenting. Shea butter and coconut oil are both known for their moisturizing properties, which are not only limited to the skin (and in fact are both present in the commercial conditioner I used to buy). And combined, they make a wonderful body butter, so I decided to start with that base and add the ACV rinse until I got a consistency I was happy with.

To make this cream rinse, you will need to start by melting your coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax in a double boiler. While those are melting down, whisk together your liquids and xanthum gum. The xanthum helps the liquids mix into the fats.

Just like a body butter, let your oil mixture cool slightly, until it just starts to solidify (if you poke your finger into it, it should make a dent). Before your mixture solidifies completely, take out your hand mixer or immersion blender and start whipping to form a body butter like consistency. Slowly pour in you liquid mixture and continue whipping until fully incorporated and you have an even texture throughout (it will be like an emulsified dressing).

Use as you would commercial conditioner. I use about a quarter sized amount and work through the length of my hair, focusing more on the ends and less on the roots/scalp. Rinse with water.

I find this conditioner very moisturizing, so I don't use it for each wash. About once per month (I only wash my hair 2-3 times per week, so every 8-10th wash; if you wash your hair daily you might be able to use this as frequently as once per week) is enough for me, and it gives my locks some new life.

Humblebee & Me also has a good looking 2-in-1 formula. I haven't tried it out, but it did provide some inspiration for my cream rinse recipe.

DIY Shampoo

Dry shampoo is great, but every now and then you need a good cleaning (or at least I do, with my current routine I can only go about 3 days between washes). I haven't hopped on the no-poo wagon completely because I did not like the baking soda method, and after about 3 days my dry shampoo just doesn't cut it anymore...my hair starts feeling oily and heavy from all the dry shampoo still in it. While I can (and sometimes do) rinse out my dry shampoo, there are days when I just need a good clean.

Commercial shampoos are full of all sorts of chemicals, but making your own is not that easy. I've been testing out shampoos for a few months now, and finally have a formula I am happy with. Even though thee ingredient list is natural, it's not short. Granted, you likely could use liquid castille soap (either straight up or diluted with water), but you can add ingredients to help renourish your hair after stripping all the dirt, grime, and oils.

Homemade Shampoo
1/2 cup liquid castille soap
1/3 cup coconut milk
1/3 cup water
1 tsp vitamin E oil
1 tsp jojoba or castor oil (I do half & half)
1 Tbsp honey
1-4 Tbsp herbs (optional)

Steep herbs in hot water for about 30 minutes (if using). Strain water into bottle and add remaining ingredients. Gently rotate the bottle to mix completely (if you shake too hard, you will cause foam in  the bottle.

This shampoo will be very liquidy. It is not the same consistency as commercial shampoo. When using this formula, I recommend using a squeeze bottle and gently squeezing out a small amount directly onto your scalp. I tend to do this in a few different locations to help me get even distribution.

This formula makes about 10 oz of shampoo. I have shoulder length hair and with fairly regular washing (about every other day), this amount has lasted me about 2 months.

Why herbs?
You can steep the herbs in water and get some extra benefits for your shampoo. They also add some scent. My herbs of choice are 1 Tbsp lavender, 1/2 Tbsp rosemary, and 1 bag Tazo Zen tea (green tea with lemongrass). Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. Rosemary is said to be good for people with oily hair as it helps control sebum production. Lavender is good for people with mixed skin types and moisturizes dry skin. All 3 are known to sooth irritated/itchy scalps which will reduce dandruff. Green Tea helps prevent hair loss and improves shine. All 4 are also said to have properties that will promote hair health & growth.

This recipe has a very herby/earthy smell. If that is unpleasing to you, you could try adding essential oils. I have not personally done this yet, but I would say 10-15 drops of scents you find pleasing (or scents that compliments your herbs) should be sufficient. I would likely use equal parts lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary as they are all beneficial to hair and would be inline with the herbs I use as well as the scent for my dry shampoo.

DIY Hair Refresher Spray

So, it's been a while since I did a DIY post for hair care. I've been testing out 3 different recipes though, and finally have one I am happy to share.

Six months ago, I shared my personal dry shampoo recipe. I am very please with it and really would not change much. If I had a spice grinder, I would try to get the nutmeg a more fine/powder consistency. And I have not tried out arrow root powder or clay, so can't say if I would want to swap out the corn starch. I find my dry shampoo works best when applied to my roots with an old make-up brush either before bed (so it can work over night, and is gone/brushed out in the morning), or about 15 minutes prior to a bath or shower (where I work it in with my hands and rinse it out). Both methods are good ways to avoid residue and powder build-up. The only downfall, if I try to do this multiple days in a row my hair gets dry and staticky; it is no longer soft and just doesn't feel good.

So, I've been digging into what seems to be called a "hair refresher" spray. I used to have one that I liked a lot, but I have no idea what was in it. I mean, seriously, I could not pronounce most of those ingredients. Plus it was expensive. So I've been doing some digging and finally found a home made version that I like and works great. It is also easily adjusted to match your scent preference. As a bonus, this basically functions as detangler or leave-in conditioning spray.

Hair Refreshing Spray
3/4 cups water
1.5 Tbsp slippery elm bark
1.5 Tbsp marshmallow root
1 cup witch hazel
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp aloe vera
20 drops essential oils (optional)

Steep the slippery elm and marshmallow root for about 30 minutes in hot water. Strain (I do this through cheesecloth or flour sack towels, and squeeze--you will notice the liquid gets almost gel-like as you squeeze out the last bits). Mix with witch hazel, apple cider vinegar, aloe vera, and essential oils. Pour into spray bottle and spritz hair when needed.

I tend to use 4oz spray bottles and store the rest in an amber glass bottle until I need a refill.


Herbs: Slippery elm bark and marshmallow root both stimulate hair growth, soften hair (provides slip and glide), and soothes your scalp. Marshmallow root also adds shine to your lackluster locks. If you don't have or don't want to use these herbs, you can leave them out completely. Or feel free to sub with other herbs, tea, or hydrosols (in place of water).

Essential Oils: Without essential oils, this spray will have a more herby/earthy scent. I personally like to use 6-7 drops each of lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary. This is the same combo I use in my dry shampoo, and I will be using this blend in my DIY shampoo & conditioner. However you can use whatever oils you like the scent of, or which best suit your hair needs. Or leave them out--this is up to you.

DIY Dry Shampoo

I've been playing with color in my hair, and I'm talking stuff like blue/green/purple. I get the irony of using this kind of hair dye vs my other decisions to go more natural, but there you have it. In an effort to preserve the color I have been on a hunt to find the best solution. (You can read my previous post here where I discuss it.) Anyway, I've found straight up corn starch to be very good, but there was some room for improvement as I have very thick, oily hair (even after getting myself down to washing my hair 2x per week, it was starting to feel a little gross by day 3).

So this recipe is based off my personal experience and catered to my hair. Naturally, I have a rather light brown hair color, so that was my goal. This dry shampoo does still start a bit light, but I find it fades in very quickly and does not leave that greying hair look like straight up cornstarch. This also fades in very well with my current blue & purple hair.

DIY Dry Shampoo (Light Brown Hair)

2/3 c cornstarch (or arrowroot powder)
1/3 c nutmeg, finely ground

20-45 drops essential oils (optional)

Feel free to substitute the nutmeg as you see fit, based on your hair color. Cinnamon  and cocoa are good for darker hair colors, and red clay is good for redheads. You can also play with the ratio of cornstarch to color as well, for example blondes may benefit from all cornstarch.

Mix all your ingredients together. If using essential oils, you will want to mix everything in a large bowl with a whisk, making sure the oils get distributed and don't clump up (as they are going to want to do, since the cornstarch's purpose is to absorb). I usually add 15 drops each lemongrass, rosemary and lavender. Most recipes suggest about 5 drops essential oil per 1/4 cup, which is about half of what I do. I really enjoy the scent though and added more to make that stronger. I also personally feel the extra oils add some benefit, as after doubling them I notice my hair felt so much cleaner! Store in an airtight container.

To use, either sprinkle (using an old salt shaker or similar), or dust (using an old makeup brush), the powder onto your hair. Focus on your roots, although if you notice the length of your hair is starting to feel oily, feel free to apply there as well. You will benefit from a light hand, as I found when starting on dry shampoo that my hair would feel dirty later on in the day due to excess build-up of product (plus too much, and you can't brush it all out so it starts to look like you have dandruff). I usually work the dry shampoo into my scalp a little bit and let it sit a few minutes before brushing it through my hair. This also works really well if you apply before bed--you will wake up with fresh & clean feeling hair. Afterwards style as usual.

A little bit about the essential oils that I chose:

Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. Rosemary is said to be good for people with oily hair as it helps control sebum production. Lavender is good for people with mixed skin types and moisturizes dry skin. All 3 are known to sooth irritated/itchy scalps which will reduce dandruff. They are also said to have properties that will promote hair health & growth.