Pest Control: Moths

Looks like we've got a theme going on here! This week we have been infested by moths. If you've never had to deal with a moth infestation, you are lucky. This is the second time I've had to deal with them. The first time they were brought in with something (I don't recall what as it was years ago now), and they were a nightmare to get rid of! They stuck around forever and ruined some of my clothes and paper items in storage. This time I wanted to get aggressive to avoid all that trouble. So once again, I've done a lot of digging and am sharing methods that have worked for me.

1. Cedar
There's a reason cedar wood has been used for centuries (we're talking as far back as Ancient Greece). Using a cedar trunk (or wardrobe/armoire if you are lucky enough!) to protect your valuables is a great move. You can also get cedar hangers or planks to hang in your closets. Unfortunately our most recent moth problem is in our kitchen & living room! These are fairly open spaces, so small bits of cedar are less effective. However, cedar chips in a sachet can be placed in cabinets or other places where you commonly see moths.

One important note is that the effectiveness of cedar is linked to the oils in the wood. So fresh cedar is going to be more effective (after about 1 year from being cut, it will start to lose efficacy). To maximize on the benefit of larger cedar pieces such as trunks, you want to make sure your items are not infested when stored & that your item is airtight/rarely opened. For older cedar items, sanding them down a bit or applying cedar oil can increase their effectiveness over time.

2. Vinegar
Cleaning your house with a simple vinegar solution will kill eggs and help keep the moths at bay. You could also use a soap solution or stronger (chemical) cleaners. Whichever your choice, you will want to make sure you really scour the area. For kitchens, this means the cabinets & pantries; for bedrooms this means closets & dressers. Really scrub and make sure you've removed all signs of moths such as webbing, eggs, dust, and any sticky surfaces (which are indicative of moth secretions, particularly in the kitchen). Boiling water in any of your solutions will also help kill any larvae or eggs it comes in contact with.

While you're at it, add vacuuming to your cleaning repertoire. You can suck up any egg sacks, larvae, etc.

3. Dried Herbs & Essential Oils
While moth balls are certainly effective (in small spaces), they are full of chemicals. If you want a natural alternative, consider making sachets or potpourris of dried herbs. Effective herbs you can use and easily access include:

• Rosemary
• Thyme
• Cloves
• Lavender
• Bay Leaves
• Lemon Balm
• Peppermint 
• Lilac
• Cinnamon

You can also use essential oils. You can sprinkle them on your cloths, create a room spray, use a diffuser, or simply apply to cotton balls. I personally like to use cotton balls as they are easy to check & reapply. Also I use this technique for ants, so I am able to choose oils that repel both pests within my kitchen. In addition to cedar &  the above list of herbs, the following oils are effective:

• Vetiver
• Sandalwood
• Sage
• Orange Blossom
• Geranium
• Lemongrass
• Bergamot
• Grapefruit
• Eucalyptus
• Patchouli

Lavender is very popularly used, so that one probably doesn't come as a surprise. I must admit that the others were all new to me, but I love that I have alternatives and can grow some of these myself (well, in theory...I am notoriously bad at gardening).

4. Washing your clothing, bedding, etc & Storing it properly
Simply washing your clothes is a great way to remove & kill moths. Dry on high heat to kill any eggs that may remain. If your clothing cannot be conventionally washed/dried, freezing or ironing it will also kill of moths & eggs (or dry clean, if that is how your item must be cared for). Air drying in the sun or with a blow dryer is also effective, especially for clothing that has recently been taken out of storage.

For natural fibers, you can also brush the material before storing in your closet. Moth eggs often enter the home via clothing or other materials that were outside. This simple action can remove eggs before they become a problem.

Proper storage of your clothing is also essential. Make sure your clothing is well ventilated & thoroughly dried (moths like humid environments). Seasonal items that may not get frequent use or regular washing should be stored in airtight spaces to prevent moths from getting to them--this is particularly useful for wool items.

Moths typically stay away from cotton and synthetic fibers. If you have an infestation, it is still wise to treat these items. However, when it comes to storage, wrapping your other clothing in cotton or a synthetic fiber may add an extra layer of protection. Air tight storage is still your best bet.

5. Creating airtight spaces
We've somewhat gone over this already, when it comes to clothes & bedding, but even in the kitchen this is a concern. It you are able, it is a good idea to caulk various entry points such as cracks in the back of the pantry/closet, where shelves & cabinets meet the wall.

Again, airtight storage for clothing (especially wool/fur/feathers & seasonal items) is very helpful in keeping moths away. Likewise, store open food in airtight containers. This does not kill moths as they will eat your clothing & food, but it can keep them out of non-infested items. Be aware moths can eat through cardboard and light plastic.

6. Check your food!
While moths will typically enter your household by clothing that has picked up eggs, or other items being brought indoors after sitting outdoors or some time, they can also enter your house with the food you buy! Bulk dry food is the biggest concern here, but even prepackaged foods can include moth eggs (I know, it's gross to think about!).

Any food that is infected should be disposed of in an airtight bag. Bulk items should also be check & disposed of. You can freeze items to ensure any moth eggs are dead as well. Even if you don't see signs of moths in your food, a musty or off smell when you are not near expiration is an indicator that your food may have been compromised.

7. DIY Moth Traps
You can buy pheremone traps, which I've heard are very effective, or create your own. One popular method is applying oil to paper (regular oil to brightly colored paper until sticky, and fish oil to fly paper are the two I've seen mentioned).

You can also do a 3:1 mixture of cornmeal & borax. The moths are attracted to and eat the cornmeal, and the borax will poison & kill them. Borax is a salt, but also can be harmful to children and pets if ingested, so keep these traps out of reach. Diatomaceous earth will also harm moths, but this is safe for pets & children.

Pest Control: Mosquitoes

Ants aren't the only pests that plague my home. This summer it's been hard to enjoy a day outside without getting eaten alive by mosquitoes and other biting bugs. My favorite commercial product is All Terrain Herbal Armor, but being a DIYer I've done the footwork to identify some effective methods you can whip up yourself.

1. Home Made Bug Spray
May favorite recipe is UEOS Tick Off/Bug Off. I made some adjustments because patchouli is not a favored scent int his house, so we used the cedar wood Lea recommends. I also scrapped the hydrosols all together (they are pricey and I had to accommodate a lavender allergy), so I just used equal parts water & witch hazel.

2. Mosquito Repelling Garden
There are a ton of plants that will deter mosquitoes and other biting bugs. If you have a green thumb (I sadly do not), you may want to make a small garden to keep the bugs away. I've always wanted to use railing planters around my deck to keep it bug free. There are a ton of plants to choose from, but some of my favorites are:

• chrysanthemum
• melissa (lemon balm)
• catnip
• citronella
• gernaium

There are quite a few others as well, that are really common and you may find them in your herb garden or regular flower bed:

• petunias
• basil
• lavender 
• marigold
• rosemary
• mint
• alliums (garlic, chives, onions, etc)
• lemongrass
• lemon thyme

A lot of these plants keep other pests away too.

3. Candles/Torches
You are probably well aware of citronella candles & tiki torches. You can use store bought ones, or make your own candles, torches & luminaries to keep the bugs away. My favorite is the luminary from A Little Claireification which looks pretty, smells great, and is effective at keeping the bugs away.

4. Smudging
Smoke generally will keep the bugs away, but there are some specific items you can add to your fire to improve the effect:

• cardboard egg cartons
• sage

5. Natural Predators
Encourage a habitat for natural predators of mosquitoes. Hang bird feeders & bat houses to invite them into your yard. If you have a pond, add some fish, turtles, or frogs.

Pest Control: Ants

Is your home being overtaken by ants? Are you struggling to control them in a kid-safe, pet-safe, and/or eco-friendly way? That was me before I did a ton of digging and found safe ways to rid my homes of ants without risking my dog or any visiting kiddos.

My favorite commerical method is EcoSMART, but I've also heard good things about Aunt Fannie's and like that their products come in regular spray bottles. But if you prefer DIY like I do, read on for my tried & true methods.

1. Essential Oils for Deterrence

• cinnamon
• peppermint
• eucalyptus
• clove
• lemon (or other citrus)
• tea tree

Essential oils are a great way to keep ants away. I like to put a few drops on cotton balls and place throughout my house. We have literally watched ants actively avoid these cotton balls or do an about-face. I like to tuck these into my pantry and by entry points. You can also use essential oils in a home made ant spray.

2. Disrupt Their Scent Trail

• lemon juice
• bleach
• vinegar
• soap

Creating a diluted spray with any of the above (solo or in combination, inclusion of essential oils is a good idea too!), wil create a multi-purpose spray. Spray where you have seen ants to disrupt their scent trail, spray around your home or entry points to act as a deterrent, and the natural soap will actually kill ants as well if sprayed directly on them. Primarily I use these ingredients to clean & create a barrier that will disorient ants and keep them away.

3. Create a Barrier

• flour
• chalk (powdered, or just draw a line)
• cornmeal
• cream of wheat
• coffee grounds
• diatomaceous earth
• ground cinnamon
• ground clove
• black pepper

The advantage to using powders to create a barrier are two-fold: these items are generally safe for ingestion by people & pets (maybe keep the coffee grounds away if kids/pets are a concern), and you can tell when it's time to redo your barrier. There are some additional benefits to a few of these items as well: cornmeal, cream of wheat, and DE actually kill ants.

4. Boiling Water
Boiling water is a pretty simple solution. It will kill the ants, but is about the most natural way to do so. Either mix boiling water with some soap to spray ants in your house, or pour boiling water into ant hills outside your home.

5. Borax
Borax will actually kill ants, and can be harmful to pets & children if ingested (just like any other salt in large quantities). If using Borax, I recommend doing so away from pets & children. You can mix Borax into sugar water (add liquid soap for some extra power), or mix it with honey & peanut butter.

6. Baking Soda & Powdered Sugar
As an alternative to Borax, which is harmful to kids & pets if ingested, you can mix baking soda & powdered sugar.

DIY Firestarters / Grill Lighter Cubes

If you follow me on Instagram, you have probably noticed this summer the boy & I have decided to become grill masters! Well, maybe not masters, but we have definitely made the venture into lump charcoal and are learning how to use our Weber to smoke meats. Pizza is on the agenda as well!

Even though we used briquettes for a while, the boy was concerned about how we would light our charcoal. For a while we had an electric starter, but it became cumbersome. We considered getting a chimney, but he didn't want to deal with potential unreliability of lighting paper (also he didn't want to use paper with colored ink on it, so the alternative would have been using up our printer supply). So we picked up Weber's lighter cubes, and they worked great. We could use anywhere between 1 and 3 cubes, depending on how much charcoal we were using.

After we upgraded to lump charcoal, however, we found we needed a chimney anyway because the varying sizes of each piece made it difficult to ensure an even burn. But again, the paper problem, so we kept using the lighter cubes. 1 cube was enough to get an entire chimney going. Then we ran out and forgot to get more, which almost put the breaks on our last minute steak dinner as no local stores carried these lighter cubes. Not to be inconvenienced, I decided to try out making my own.

Weber's lighter cubes are small paraffin wax cubes. You get 24 in a box for about $3-4 dollars. I don't have paraffin on hand, but I almost always have beeswax pellets these days. So I melted some down & soaked a cotton ball. It took a tad longer to light, but worked a dream. With that success, I made a whole batch!

Beeswax Lighter Cubes
100% cotton egg carton (bottom w/ no ink)
18 cotton balls
2 cups food-grade beeswax pellets










When I made my first trial, I just melted about 1 Tbsp of wax and let a cotton ball soak it up. We used it before the wax could even dry, and had no problems. However, to make a bulk batch, I knew that process would not be the most efficient, so I've refined it a bit.

In a double boiler (or you can put a heat-safe glass container in a pot of boiling water), melt your wax. This may take some time, and stirring to break up chunks can help move it along. While your wax is melting place your cotton balls into your egg carton. Once the wax is melted, pour it over your cotton balls. They will want to soak up as much wax as possible, so do your best to evenly distribute it. You may also need to flip or rotate the cotton balls.

The egg carton is totally optional here, but it made the process easier for me. Otherwise, you are stuck dipping each cotton ball into your melted wax, and then you need to find somewhere for them to dry!

Once dry, they are ready to store or use. I like to prep the carton by cutting off any extra bits along the outside and between each compartment (this allows for an easy tear-off option). Using the egg cartons vs straight up cotton balls gives you a large-ish piece, so you may be able to cut them in half and stretch them out even farther.








To use, place under your charcoal chimney, directly on your charcoal pile, or in the middle of your campfire. Light it up and let your coals or campfire do it's thing. This is organic & food-safe, as long as your egg carton does not have color ink. This is also a lot cheaper! For $10 you can get 1lb of beeswax and 200 cotton balls. I haven't done a mass batch yet, but 1lb of beeswax should easily be enough for 100 cotton balls, and honestly could probably get you pretty far into the full 200. The egg carton is optional, but if you use one it should be recycled which means no extra cost to you. For $10, you can get 50-75 of the commercial paraffin cubes...so why not make your own?

Skin Soothing Bath Salts

Following suit with last week's anti-itch cream, let's continue to focus on how we can relieve our dry, itchy, or bug-bitten skin. I had ankle surgery about 3 months ago now, and my scar can certainly act up and cause me all sorts of grief. And as you learned last week, mosquitoes apparently find me delicious!

Now that I can actually enjoy a good soak (you can't soak your surgery site for quite some time!), I am taking advantage. I've used my sore muscle soak as a lovely way to rest & recover from physical therapy, but sometimes you just want to soothe and treat your skin. This bath salt recipe has done wonders for my dry & shedding skin, swollen and tight skin, and itchy scar (the joys of surgery recovery!). It's also helped out wonderfully when my legs were assaulted by mosquitoes my first day by the pool! Ah, the irony...

Anyway, here is my very soothing salt recipe for when you are itchy or your skin just needs a little extra TLC.

Skin Soothing Bath Salts
1 cup epsom salt
2 Tbsp baking soda
1/4 c ground oats (or oat flour)
10-20 drops essential oils of choice*
1/4 tsp trauma oil
1 Tbsp castille soap
2 tsp dried basil
2 tsp dried lavender
1 tsp dried rosemary

Dilute your essential oils in the trauma oil & castille soap. Don't stir too much, or it will get foamy! Pour your oil mix into your salts and stir until evenly distributed. Add your baking soda, and stir again until evenly distributed. For this salt mix, I like to grind my herbs before adding them. You can do this with a spice grinder, coffee grinder, or good old mortar & pestle (which is what I use!). This is both because it helps get rid of plant parts creating a ring in your tub (if you don't use a sachet, which I usually don't), and because I worried the ground oats would get funky if they absorbed anything so I like to use the ground herbs as a buffer to soak up anything first. If dried herbs aren't your thing, you can leave them out but might want to add the same plants to your oil selection. Add your ground oats (or oat flour) LAST! Oats tend to soak up any liquid they come in contact with, so I like to add them last, especially if making a large batch, to allow all the other ingredients to absorb the oils first.

Use 1/2-1 cup for a foot bath, or 1-2 cups for a full bath. Let everything dissolve well before hopping in (I personally like to wait 10-15 minutes to give the herbs time to "steep").

The recipe as listed above is for 1-3 uses. I like to make a large batch in advance, typically tripling the amounts above (resulting in about 4.5 cups of soak). If you decide to make a large batch, make sure to store your soak in an airtight glass container.

*I tend to favor lavender, camphor, chamomile, and sandalwood in equal parts. Another lovely combination would be frankincense, myrrh, and sandalwood, although I would probably switch up the herbs (possibly to something like lavender, chamomile, and thyme?) or leave them out.

Some other beneficial plants/oils which are technically included via the trauma oil & dried herbs include calendula, arnica, st. john's wort, basil, and rosemary. And there are even more oils purported for their skin care properties such as thyme, tea tree, eucalyptus, melissa, lemongrass...the list really does go on based on your needs! I've put together a small chart to help you identify which herbs/oils you may want to use in your skin soothing bath salts (citruses were discluded because they can be too strong or cause photo sensitivity):

Anti-Itch Cream

It's summer, the bugs are out, and my legs are apparently delicious! My family also generally reacts strongly to mosquito bites, with my brother & sister actually having allergic reactions that tend to result in silver dollar sized welts. I'm not that bad, but these bites itch something fierce, look red and angry, and will leave bruise-like marks weeks after they are gone. It's time for some relief, and what better place to get it than from my kitchen?

I created this "cream" as a sort of frankenstein recipe from other methods & creams I have found online. In reality, it is a bit more like a paste, and it won't rub in completely (I don't think that's possible with baking soda...). Also, just a heads up, but as this sits, the ground oats absorb some of the moisture and it gets a goopy texture. Still works a dream, but definitely a bit odd.

Anti-Itch Cream
2 Tbsp ground oats (or oat flour)
2 Tbsp baking soda
1 Tbsp honey
1 Tbsp aloe vera gel
1 tsp witch hazel
1 tsp apple cider vinegar
5 drops essential oil*

Combine all ingredients together, stirring until a smooth paste is formed, and store in an air-tight container. This cream should keep for about 30 days. You may be able to extend that by keeping it in the refrigerator (plus, the cool cream will feel even better on your bites & itchy skin).

To use, rub a small amount of the paste onto bites or itchy areas. If you don't like the pasty feeling/residue, wipe off with a cool damp cloth after a few minutes (just water is fine, but you could also soak in witch hazel, aloe vera juice, or apple cider vinegar). Reapply as often as needed. Alternately, you can dissolve a tablespoon or 2 of this paste into your bathe water for some relief.

*Lavender essential oil is a great choice, but there are other oils that will help with itching as well: eucalyptus, peppermint, basil, thyme, lemon balm (melissa), chamomile, tea tree; single drop of grapefruit, citronella, lemongrass. Even onion & garlic are helpful, if you are brave enough! 

My personal choice was a 5 oil cocktail (using 1 drop of each): lavender, eucalyptus, peppermint, chamomile, and basil. And you really only need 1 drop of each, any more is WAY too much. Keep your oils to 5 drops or less or this recipe.

Kitchen & Bath Scrub

Soft Scrub with Bleach used to be my go to for bathroom & kitchen cleaning. When we came across Bar Keeper's Friend, that took over for the kitchen. Neither is necessarily dangerous to my knowledge, but they also aren't very natural. I found a great scrub recipe on Aromahead, but really this recipe can be found all over the place by bloggers who make their own cleaners

This scrub is abrasive enough to bring some shine to your kitchen sink, lightly polish faucets, and scrub out your bath & toilet. It's also very customizeable, so you can use more or less baking soda to get the scrubbing power you need.

Kitchen & Bath Scrub

1 cup baking soda
1/4 cup liquid castille soap
1-2 Tbsp vinegar (optional)
30-40 drops essential oil

Mix the baking soda, castille soap, and vinegar together. It will form a rather thick paste (adjust to your preference/scrubbing power needs). Add essential oils and stir again to make sure they are fully dispersed.

Don't use any more than 2 Tbsp vinegar. Vinegar will cancel out both baking soda and castille soap. The fizzing action of vinegar and baking soda can help with some cleaning (particularly clogged drains), but when left to sit they are creating salt water. With the large amount of baking soda in this recipe, that is not much of  concern. Likewise, vinegar and castille soap can cancel each other out, leading to oil or "unsaponified" soap. With such a small amount of vinegar in this recipe, you are not risking these reactions.Alternately, you can leave the vinegar out as you lose the benefit unless you use this entire recipe right away.

Which Essential Oils?
Citrus oils, Tea Tree, and Peppermint are all great cleansing oils. Andrea Butje uses these in her recipe on Aromahead, but if you have her phone app you will see a different combination of oils listed. Really, you can just use whatever oils you enjoy the scent of. If you want the extra boost of cleansing power from antifungal, antiviral, and antimicrobial oils there are a lot of options or you can go with the tried and true citrus, tea tree, and peppermint.

My Hair Care Routine

As part of a transition to a more natural/green lifestyle, I've not only begun making chemical-free cleaning products & toiletries, I have adjusted the way I live. This includes a transition to more sustainable household items (such as slowly phasing out plastics for glass, ceramic, and metal), and adjusting my habits.

No-poo is a huge movement, and believe me I have made a good effort to follow this, but there are a few things that get in my way. My hair is super oily, even after months I was not able to go more than 3 days or so without an actual wash (dry shampoo only does so much, and eventually you will get build-up). I also found the baking soda method too abrasive for my scalp, and drying/damaging to my hair. So I experimented with making my own products and have a routine I can rely on.

This routine allows me to wash my hair 1-2 times per week. You'll notice it's not an exact schedule, as there are different factors going into how many days I can follow each step. Generally speaking though, I wash my hair every 3-4 days. However I have also found that if I need to wash a few days in a row, getting back into this routine is easy ad I don't need to readjust.

Day 1: Wash with homemade shampoo and conditioner

If I have the patience I'll let my hair air dry, but on particularly cold days or if I have somewhere to be early I have broken out my blow dryer (I always leave it damp/air-dry for a little bit even when I blow dry). I also am bad and will towel dry/scrub instead of t-shirt dry/squeeze. It's suppose to be damaging to your hair if you scrub it with a towel, but I haven't had problems and am an impatient person who likes my damp hair to still feel somewhat dried.







Day 2-4: Brush hair/Rinse with water

L: Dry Brush; R: Rinse & Brush

If you have a boar bristle brush, this can help you more evenly distribute sebum and oils. Some naturalists also recommend brushing thoroughly, with your head upright then upside down a couple times for proper oil distribution. I'm lazy so this doesn't normally happen--most of the time I just use my paddle brush lol. Usually my hair is still clean enough to leave down without feeling oily or heavy. If I am particularly active on this day, I may need to put it up.


Most days I still rinse my hair with water while I shower. I'll usually give it a quick brush before hopping in the shower. I saturate my hair and massage my scalp a bit, then rinse again.

Sometimes I can go up to 3 days only brushing and rinsing my hair. Other times I can only go a day or two. A lot of depends on how active I am, what the weather is like (and if I'm out in said weather), etc. I've found the farther I get into this habit, and the less I rely on dry shampoo, that it is much easier to push 2 or 3 days. Over the hot holiday weekend I was able to last a full 3 days, and we were out in the heat each day.


Day 3/4/5/6: Dry shampoo

In all honesty, I normally apply the dry shampoo the night before. I use a makeup brush to apply directly to my roots (in parts/lines about 1-2 inches apart along the front/sides, and also from my crown down to nape). Normally I'll work it in a little bit with my finger tips, and then I leave my hair down and go to bed. This allows the dry shampoo to collect all kinds of oils and evenly distribute itself. In the morning, I just brush my hair and style as usual.

I usually don't rinse my hair when using dry shampoo. I find that the oil build up still weighs down my hair. If I am on day 3 or 4, sometimes I'll still give it a try.

I also normally only do this 1 day, but sometimes I can pull off 2 days in a row. I tend to find the build up of 2 applications on top of my hair's oils to be too much. This is usually when I try giving my hair a rinse. I haven't found applying at night and rinsing or rinsing in the morning and applying when dry to be more effective than the other.

Also, sometimes I completely skip the dry shampoo day and move on to washing. Usually this will be if I'm pushing 3 days with no product.


Spot Treatment: Spritz with hair refresher

L: Before; R: After

If on any day my hair seems stringy, dry, lackluster, dull, or just looks heavy and lifeless, I will use my homemade refresher spray to give some life back to my hair. In fact, I use this most days where I'm not actually washing my hair. This conditions my hair which gives some shine and body back without having to get your hair completely wet. The brief dampness can also help with any specific styling needs.



Swimming: Water is your friend

My workout of choice is swimming. I frankly hate the gym, running (arbitrarily, I'm fine taking the dog out or if I have a destination, same with biking). Swimming is a great full body workout, and I supplement it with yoga. However that chlorine... Wetting your hair before swimming fills your hair up with water, leaving little room for chlorinated water to soak in. I also find that tying my hair back helps keep everything tight and protected against chlorine, or if you are up to it a swim cap will offer lots of protection. If you swim regularly, like I do, you may want to use a DIY conditioner to revitalize your locks.

I am still a newbie to a more natural hair care routine. I've only been trying this out for a little over 1 year and I went through a few different attempts before I found this system which I am happy with. Lucy over at Happy Hair has all kinds of advice, so if you don't find answer here check our her 5-year FAQ. I am particularly interested in checking out soap nuts myself n_~

DIY Hair Conditioner

So we've already covered a spray-in conditioner, but to go with my shampoo recipe, I wanted a conditioner to use in the shower as part of my routine. Apple Cider Vinegar is a great conditioner just on it's own, but you can also infuse it with herbs to get all kinds of extra benefits. Today's post will consist of 3 different options for you, each improving on the one before it.

ACV Hair Rinse
2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 qt water

Mix these together at the time of your shower and just pour over your hair after rinsing out your shampoo. I've seen other bloggers recommend equal parts ACV and water (at 1/4 cup to 2/3 cup each, depending on the length and thickness of your hair), but you really don't need that much ACV. I also find diluting it in a quart of water gives you ample liquid to fully saturate your hair.

You don't need to rinse this out either. You can follow-up with an all water rinse if desired, but it's not necessary. Don't worry if you smell a bit like ACV, it will dissipate quickly (and frankly, you are the only one who will notice until it does).

ACV Herbal Hair Rinse

1 quart apple cider vinegar (the kind with the mother)
1 cup herbs of choice (Wellness Mama has a great herb combo)
water

Combine herbs and vinegar in a large jar and secure cover. Infuse for about 4 weeks in a cool, dark place. Shake every other day or so, then strain through cheesecloth.

When you are ready to use your herbal rinse, dilute approximately 2 Tbsp infused vinegar in 1 quart water (or whatever ratio works best for you, up to equal parts). You can leave in as your final rinse or follow with an all-water rinse.

I have found that this has a very herby/earthy scent. If you want something a little more pleasing, you could add essential oils to your finished product. Personally, I have not tried this out but would say 45-50 drops of scents pleasing to you (or complimentary to the herbs you choose) should be sufficient. I would likely use equal parts lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary as they are all beneficial to hair and would be inline with the herbs I use as well as the scent for my dry shampoo.



What herbs do I use?
Wellness Mama and I actually have a lot of overlap between the herbs I prefer and what she recommends (I pretty much just sub lemongrass for basil). I will let you visit her blog for her recommendations & amounts, or you can peruse this list and decide which herbs and how much of each you want to use:

Horsetail strengthens your hair and also can help control oily hair thanks to its astringent properties.

Nettle is full of vitamins and minerals that will nourish and improve scalp health, as well as make your hair stronger and more vibrant.

Basil nourishes your scalp, promotes hair growth, and helps remove toxins and heavy metals.

Lavender is great for mixed skin types and will moisturize dry skin as well as calm inflammation. This also aids in controlling dandruff. It increases circulation which promotes hair health and growth.

Rosemary helps control sebum production, especially beneficial for oily hair and to aid in controlling dandruff from dry and itchy scalps. It also affects circulation promoting hair health and growth. It's slightly astringent properties strengthen hair follicles which helps prevent hair loss.

Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. It also soothes irritated and itchy scalps helping to reduce dandruff, as well as promotes general hair health and growth.

Slippery Elm Bark stimulates hair growth, softens hair (provides slip and glide), and soothes the scalp.

Marshmallow Root has the same benefits as slippery elm, but also adds shine to lackluster locks.

ACV Cream Rinse

2 Tbsp coconut oil
2 Tbsp shea or cocoa butter
1 Tbsp beeswax (or BTMS-50 emulsifying wax)

1/2 c apple cider vinegar (raw or infused)
1/2 c water
1/2 c coconut milk
1/2 - 1 tsp xanthum gum (depending on desired consistency)




For those of you that prefer a cream rinse, I did some experimenting. Shea butter and coconut oil are both known for their moisturizing properties, which are not only limited to the skin (and in fact are both present in the commercial conditioner I used to buy). And combined, they make a wonderful body butter, so I decided to start with that base and add the ACV rinse until I got a consistency I was happy with.

To make this cream rinse, you will need to start by melting your coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax in a double boiler. While those are melting down, whisk together your liquids and xanthum gum. The xanthum helps the liquids mix into the fats.

Just like a body butter, let your oil mixture cool slightly, until it just starts to solidify (if you poke your finger into it, it should make a dent). Before your mixture solidifies completely, take out your hand mixer or immersion blender and start whipping to form a body butter like consistency. Slowly pour in you liquid mixture and continue whipping until fully incorporated and you have an even texture throughout (it will be like an emulsified dressing).

Use as you would commercial conditioner. I use about a quarter sized amount and work through the length of my hair, focusing more on the ends and less on the roots/scalp. Rinse with water.

I find this conditioner very moisturizing, so I don't use it for each wash. About once per month (I only wash my hair 2-3 times per week, so every 8-10th wash; if you wash your hair daily you might be able to use this as frequently as once per week) is enough for me, and it gives my locks some new life.

Humblebee & Me also has a good looking 2-in-1 formula. I haven't tried it out, but it did provide some inspiration for my cream rinse recipe.

DIY Shampoo

Dry shampoo is great, but every now and then you need a good cleaning (or at least I do, with my current routine I can only go about 3 days between washes). I haven't hopped on the no-poo wagon completely because I did not like the baking soda method, and after about 3 days my dry shampoo just doesn't cut it anymore...my hair starts feeling oily and heavy from all the dry shampoo still in it. While I can (and sometimes do) rinse out my dry shampoo, there are days when I just need a good clean.

Commercial shampoos are full of all sorts of chemicals, but making your own is not that easy. I've been testing out shampoos for a few months now, and finally have a formula I am happy with. Even though thee ingredient list is natural, it's not short. Granted, you likely could use liquid castille soap (either straight up or diluted with water), but you can add ingredients to help renourish your hair after stripping all the dirt, grime, and oils.

Homemade Shampoo
1/2 cup liquid castille soap
1/3 cup coconut milk
1/3 cup water
1 tsp vitamin E oil
1 tsp jojoba or castor oil (I do half & half)
1 Tbsp honey
1-4 Tbsp herbs (optional)

Steep herbs in hot water for about 30 minutes (if using). Strain water into bottle and add remaining ingredients. Gently rotate the bottle to mix completely (if you shake too hard, you will cause foam in  the bottle.

This shampoo will be very liquidy. It is not the same consistency as commercial shampoo. When using this formula, I recommend using a squeeze bottle and gently squeezing out a small amount directly onto your scalp. I tend to do this in a few different locations to help me get even distribution.

This formula makes about 10 oz of shampoo. I have shoulder length hair and with fairly regular washing (about every other day), this amount has lasted me about 2 months.

Why herbs?
You can steep the herbs in water and get some extra benefits for your shampoo. They also add some scent. My herbs of choice are 1 Tbsp lavender, 1/2 Tbsp rosemary, and 1 bag Tazo Zen tea (green tea with lemongrass). Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. Rosemary is said to be good for people with oily hair as it helps control sebum production. Lavender is good for people with mixed skin types and moisturizes dry skin. All 3 are known to sooth irritated/itchy scalps which will reduce dandruff. Green Tea helps prevent hair loss and improves shine. All 4 are also said to have properties that will promote hair health & growth.

This recipe has a very herby/earthy smell. If that is unpleasing to you, you could try adding essential oils. I have not personally done this yet, but I would say 10-15 drops of scents you find pleasing (or scents that compliments your herbs) should be sufficient. I would likely use equal parts lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary as they are all beneficial to hair and would be inline with the herbs I use as well as the scent for my dry shampoo.

DIY Herbal Mouthwash

Let's round out the past few weeks of oral care before moving onto a new topic. As I mentioned in my remineralizing tooth powder post, I've been looking for a way to replace my mouthwash. I used a remineralizing mouthwash previously, and now that I've found a toothpaste to help supplement the need for that particular mouthwash, I was on the hunt for another DIY.

Once again, I turned to Wellness Mama for some inspiration. However this time I didn't use her recipe as a springboard, but pretty much used it unadulterated. The only difference is that again I leave out the essential oils. Even though you are not swallowing the mouthwash, I choose to leave essential oils out of my oral care items due to the fact that they are not recommended for ingestion. Either way is fine.

Herbal Mouthwash Tincture

8 oz vodka or grain alcohol
1 tsp clove powder
2 Tbsp peppermint leaf
2 Tbsp plantain leaf
1 Tbsp rosemary
water






Combine your dried herbs into a jar and pour over enough boiling water just to cover (you want to get the herbs damp enough to release their oils). Then pour in vodka and cover jar. Let steep 4 weeks, then drain through cheesecloth. Store your tincture in a glass bottle. I tend to keep a master batch in our basement, and a small 1oz dropper bottle on the bathroom sink.

To use your mouthwash, combine 1 dropper full (about 40 drops) with 1 oz (about 1 mouthful) of water. I like to keep a small shot glass in the bathroom for this purpose. Swish for 30 seconds as you do normal mouthwash, then expectorate.

So why these herbs?

Wellness Mama explains it well, but I'll give you a quick rundown... 

Clove has been historically associated with oral care due to it's antimicrobial, antiviral, and antifungal properties. It is also known to sooth oral pain specifically, from small wounds to toothaches. 

Peppermint (or Spearmint) has been used in oral care a bunch as well (think of most store bought toothpastes and mouth washes). This is because it has antimicrobial and cooling (soothing) properties. 

Plantain is also antimicrobial and antifungal, but mostly it is touted for it's ability to help in healing wounds, which makes it a great addition for minor oral scratches, bleeding gums, and braces. 

Rosemary is again antimicrobial, but also has cooling (soothing) properties and is known particularly to help soothe sore gums.

I've been very happy with this combination of herbs, but if you dislike the flavor of one, or are allergic, or just can't get ahold of them, there are others you can consider:

Echinecea is antimicrobial, draws out infection, and boosts your immune system which makes it great to fight colds & the flu. However this also benefits your oral care, and in fact this herb has been called the toothache plant due to it's effectiveness.

Oregon Grape Root is another anitmicrobial herb, but is is also an astringent and will help tighten and tone your gums. This is a great herb to add if you often have swollen or inflamed gum tissue.

Orange Peel has been known to remove surface stains and can help with teeth whitening (we use it in homemade cleaners, so imagine what it does for your teeth). It also helps freshen your breath and soothes sensitivity.

Cinnamon* is antifungal and antibacterial. It is well known to fight off the bacteria that cause tooth decay and gum disease.

Myrrh is an antiseptic and soothes your gums. It has historically been used to treat mouth ulcers and support gums in general, which may be because it helps circulate blood flow in the gums.

Tumeric is antimicrobial, and anti-oxidant. It also helps reduce inflammation, making it a great choice to help soothe gingivitis and peridontitis. Tumeric has also been shown to aid with a variety of gum tissue and muscle problems, soothe oral cancer patients, and generally ease toothaches.

Propolis (beehive resin) is antimicrobial and used worldwide to treat tooth infections.

What about mouthwash alternatives?

If you want to stay away from mouthwash, oil pulling with coconut oil or a salt water rinse are both very beneficial.

*I personally would recommend staying away from cinnamon. While I've heard good things, and even seen cinnamon toothpaste commercially, I have also read that it can be irritating to your gums. Women seem to be particularly more susceptible to irritation from cinnamon than men, but as I find it expensive to switch over to a natural DIY lifestyle (definitely more sustainable once you get there, but that initial switch has a price), I didn't want to waste a batch of mouthwash to find out it does more harm than good.

DIY Mineralizing Tooth Powder

I had been using my whitening toothpaste for months now, and I really like it. It cleans my teeth well, and I do feel the whitening is occurring (although it's not an instant fix by any means). However, I have very tightly packed teeth and cavities are always a concern for me, so I wanted to investigate a toothpaste that could help repair my enamel. I currently use a repairing mouthwash, but as that is also on my list of projects to tackle, I wanted to ensure I could still get the benefits.

Now, credit where credit's due, I took a lot of my recipe from Wellness Mama. She is associated with Lea Harris over at Using Essential Oils Safely, and I find her very reliable. However, I did find myself making some adjustments to her recipe. I never use Xylitol (or really most sweetener alternatives) because it is highly toxic to dogs and I don't want and chance of it being near my pets. I also choose not to use essential oils in my toothpaste because not all oils are suitable for kids and very few are suitable for ingestion (and while we all know you aren't supposed to swallow toothpaste, why risk it?). And finally I do not use cinnamon because it can actually cause gum problems (this doesn't affect everyone, but women are more susceptible so again, why risk it?.

Remineralizing Tooth Powder

1 tsp calcium powder
1 tsp bentonite clay
1/4 tsp diatomaceous earth
1/4 tsp activated charcoal
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp ground clove
1/4 tsp orange zest
1/4 tsp sea salt (or less to taste)
1 dash cayenne pepper (optional)
4 drops trace minerals (optional)

This recipe will just about fill a 2oz jar. Mix everything together in a small bowl before transferring into your jar. For a powder, you will want to make sure your orange zest is dried or use a mortar and pestle to mix fresh zest more thoroughly (then let your powder dry a bit).

The cayenne pepper is optional. If you choose to add it, do only use a dash (very small amount). It can help numb any oral pain you may be having, but too much can also cause irritation so use sparingly if at all.

Toothpaste variation: add 1.5 Tbsp coconut oil (or a combo of coconut & sesame oil, which give a softer consistency). This will still fit perfectly in a 2 oz jar, or you can use a 2 oz squeeze container. If making a toothpaste, you can also use fresh range zest.

What sets this apart from my other toothpaste?
If you checked out my other recipe, I'm sure you noticed it seems I've mostly added ingredients and swapped out the flavoring. That is partially true, I've made additions to help rebuild the minerals in my teeth, but the "flavors" each have their own purpose as well. Here's a quick rundown of the new ingredients:

Diatomaceous Earth is an abrasive (and tends to be more abrasive than the other ingredients, so you can always leave it out especially if using baking soda), but it also contains trace minerals and silica which help with remineralization.

Calcium Magnesium Powder is integral to the remineralization process. Calcium, as we know, benefits bones (and teeth!), and the magnesium is what helps the calcium to be properly absorbed.

Trace Minerals are also a big part of the remineralization process and can help restore tooth enamel. They are recommended if you drink things like reverse osmosis water (which removes all the bad stuff, but also all the good stuff).

Clove has been historically associated with oral care due to it's antimicrobial, antiviral, and antifungal properties. It is also known to sooth oral pain specifically, from small wounds to toothaches.

Orange has been known to remove surface stains and can help with teeth whitening (we use it in homemade cleaners, so imagine what it does for your teeth). It also helps freshen your breath and soothes sensitivity.

Cayenne offers pain relief with a warming, numbing sensation. It is also known to relieve gum inflammation. However, be careful, as too much capsaicin can cause irritation (or if you are allergic like me, worse). Even though I have a topical allergy, I find a small dash does not cause me discomfort.

Sesame Oil is another oil traditionally used for oil pulling, but it's main purpose in this recipe is to help with the texture as coconut oil will harden while your toothpaste sits in your cabinet.

DIY Whitening Toothpaste

I really hate most toothpastes. I'm not a big fan of strong mint flavors (I like wintergreen and fresh mint, spearmint is ok in small doses, and I absolutely hate peppermint), so once I realized you could make your own toothpaste at home, I knew I had to give it a try. I started my research with Ask the Dentist, and use his chocolate lovers recipe as a springboard for this one.

A few things of note in regards to what I chose to include and remove for my first try at a homemade toothpaste. I will not use Xylitol. This is twofold: 1) I am weary about many sweetener alternatives and tend to stick with very basic and natural sweeteners such as raw sugar, coconut sugar, honey, maple syrup, and agave nectar. 2) Xylitol is highly toxic to dogs so I will not even keep it in my house, let alone use it in anything because the risk is too great for my pets.

The other point is about essential oils. I've come across a lot of recipes that include essential oils. I opt not to for a few different reasons. Not all essential oils are kid safe, and young children should not be exposed to them at all. Also, very few essential oils are considered safe for ingestion, and unless under the guidance of a doctor and certified aroma therapist you should not be ingesting them (and it will be a very rare occurrence it is recommended for you). While you should not be swallowing toothpaste, it's just not worth it to me to create any risk of ingestion.

Whitening Toothpaste

1 Tbsp coconut oil
1/2 Tbsp bentonite clay
1/2 Tbsp activated charcoal
1/4 tsp cacao powder
1/8 tsp finely ground mint leaves
1/8 tsp sea salt
1 Tbsp water

Simply mix all your ingredients together in a small bowl. This is enough to fill up a 2 oz jar or squeeze container, but use at least a 1-2 cup bowl to mix this thoroughly.

You may not need to full 1 Tbsp of water. This is more for consistency. If you are using a squeeze container, you may want the full amount or even more, if you are using a jar you can go with less and have a more firm or powdery consistency. Alternately, you could completely leave out the coconut oil and water, creating a tooth powder.

Something to note when using activated charcoal, it will turn everything black! Your measuring spoons, your bowl, your counter, your mouth, and your sink! It wipes up fairly well, but you will feel a bit odd the first few times you use it n_~

Why these ingredients?
Each ingredient serves a purpose. Granted, as this was my first attempt, I followed the lead of Dr. B, but I also did my research. So here is an explanation behind the ingredients in my toothpaste:

Coconut Oil is known to increase the microbiome in your gut as well as prevent candida in the mouth. Limited research also suggests it may help prevent cavity causing bacteria. We use coconut oil for the ayurvedic practice of oil pulling (swishing oil in your mouth for about 20 minutes to draw out toxins), so it seems a natural addition.

Bentonite Clay is a natural polisher without being too abrasive. As an alkaline, it also helps reduce acid levels in your mouth which in turns helps prevent erosion of enamel.

Baking Soda, much like bentonite clay, is a gently polisher, but it's primary benefit to toothpaste is its alkalinity which helps maintain proper ph balance in your mouth.

Sea Salt again adds some abrasion, as toothpastes primary job is to add some grit to help scrub away dirt, but it is also healing. Think about how you use a sea salt rinse for bleeding gums, or gargle it for a sore throat.

Cacao Powder made from ground cacao nibs is a safe polisher, but also helps promote remineralization (said to be even better than flouride).

Mint is primarily added for flavoring, but mint also has antimicrobial and soothing properties.

DIY Hair Refresher Spray

So, it's been a while since I did a DIY post for hair care. I've been testing out 3 different recipes though, and finally have one I am happy to share.

Six months ago, I shared my personal dry shampoo recipe. I am very please with it and really would not change much. If I had a spice grinder, I would try to get the nutmeg a more fine/powder consistency. And I have not tried out arrow root powder or clay, so can't say if I would want to swap out the corn starch. I find my dry shampoo works best when applied to my roots with an old make-up brush either before bed (so it can work over night, and is gone/brushed out in the morning), or about 15 minutes prior to a bath or shower (where I work it in with my hands and rinse it out). Both methods are good ways to avoid residue and powder build-up. The only downfall, if I try to do this multiple days in a row my hair gets dry and staticky; it is no longer soft and just doesn't feel good.

So, I've been digging into what seems to be called a "hair refresher" spray. I used to have one that I liked a lot, but I have no idea what was in it. I mean, seriously, I could not pronounce most of those ingredients. Plus it was expensive. So I've been doing some digging and finally found a home made version that I like and works great. It is also easily adjusted to match your scent preference. As a bonus, this basically functions as detangler or leave-in conditioning spray.

Hair Refreshing Spray
3/4 cups water
1.5 Tbsp slippery elm bark
1.5 Tbsp marshmallow root
1 cup witch hazel
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp aloe vera
20 drops essential oils (optional)

Steep the slippery elm and marshmallow root for about 30 minutes in hot water. Strain (I do this through cheesecloth or flour sack towels, and squeeze--you will notice the liquid gets almost gel-like as you squeeze out the last bits). Mix with witch hazel, apple cider vinegar, aloe vera, and essential oils. Pour into spray bottle and spritz hair when needed.

I tend to use 4oz spray bottles and store the rest in an amber glass bottle until I need a refill.


Herbs: Slippery elm bark and marshmallow root both stimulate hair growth, soften hair (provides slip and glide), and soothes your scalp. Marshmallow root also adds shine to your lackluster locks. If you don't have or don't want to use these herbs, you can leave them out completely. Or feel free to sub with other herbs, tea, or hydrosols (in place of water).

Essential Oils: Without essential oils, this spray will have a more herby/earthy scent. I personally like to use 6-7 drops each of lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary. This is the same combo I use in my dry shampoo, and I will be using this blend in my DIY shampoo & conditioner. However you can use whatever oils you like the scent of, or which best suit your hair needs. Or leave them out--this is up to you.

Make Your Own Food Wraps

I'm sure you've seen these beeswax food wraps floating around. They are a great all-natural alternative to plastic wrap. I love them! They are perfect for wrapping up leftovers, snacks, sandwiches, etc. I have some by Bee's Wrap which I purchased through Mighty Nest and am quite happy with. However, they can get expensive if you want or need to have a lot on hand (I cook large batches and often have leftovers, so I find myself using multiple pieces per week). Making them yourself can get pricey too if you only want a few pieces, but the breakdown is fairly inexpensive and the effort is worth it if you want to stock up or give sets out to friends & family. A friend & I made a huge batch this spring for home & kitchen themed Easter baskets for a local charity. And now I am getting ready to make Christmas gift sets for friends & family.

Bees Wax Wraps
100% cotton fabric, cut to desired size
beeswax (pellets or grated)
pine tree rosin
jojoba oil

I took my inspiration from Mommypotamus, but ended up forgoing the exact measurements. I did generally follow her ratio however of 4 parts beeswax, 4 parts rosin, and 1 part oil. I would also recommend designating a cookie sheet and paint brush to this purpose only. You may need to experiment a bit with the ratio/measurements to find what works best for you. (For example, Goodful recommends a ratio of 8 parts beeswax, 4 parts rosin, and 1 part jojoba).

Preheat your oven to the lowest temp it will go (mine is 200F). Sprinkle on equal parts rosin (which I put in a shaker for easy dispensing), followed by the beeswax. I used a spray bottle to lightly spray the oil over the top. Pop into the oven until everything is melted. At this point I found it beneficial to use the paint brush and mix/distribute the melted ingredients and pop the cloth back in the oven. Check the back to make sure the fabric is fully saturated. Hang your saturated cloth to dry.

Now, you could just use beeswax, and it will work. The beeswax helps create a water resistant/air-tight seal, and it does have a bit of tack. However, the rosin really does help with the stick factor. The jojoba oil just helps everything blend together and soak into the fabric better.

Once dried, they are ready to use (or be stored, packaged, etc). The heat from your hands will mold the wrap over containers, bread, cheese, fruits & veggies, etc. You can also fold a wrap into a snack or sandwich bag (attach a button & string for cute and easy sealing). The wraps don't really stick to plastic containers though, and should not be used for wet foods or raw meats.

After use, your wraps will need to be washed. Don't use hot water as it will cause your coating to melt away. Instead, lightly wipe with soap and rinse in cold water. If over time you notice cracks or "thin" spots on your wrap, simply place on a parchment lined sheet in your oven set to its lowest temperature for a few minutes then redistribute the coating.

With proper care, your wraps can last up to 1 year. At that point you can just recoat them following the instructions above, or you can dispose of them. Since we are using natural ingredients, they are fully compostable. You can also cut down your old wraps to use as an effective fire starter (in fact, I save scraps from trimming my pieces down for this exact purpose).



One thing I do want to note, is that I found this process...messy. Definitely make sure to hang your pieces to dry, otherwise wherever you lay them will end up with beeswax & rosin dried on it. I also found I had wax and rosin stuck to my stove top and surrounding counter/floor which needed to be scraped up. This could just be me, but I do have grand plans of refining the process. I want to mix all the ingredients together and keep them liquid to either brush/pour onto the fabric, or dip the fabric into. In theory, this is brilliant, but as I have not yet tested it out I cannot recommend it ;)

Make Your Own Stock & Broth

Last night I was making pot pies and realized I was out of chicken stock. In all honesty, this was store bought chicken stock, but regardless I did not have enough for the recipe. However, I had a ton of veggie scraps saved in the freezer for making my own stock, and I often sub veggie stock for chicken, so I decided to just make my own instead of running across the street to the store. I knew it had been a while since I last made any, after all I had been picking it up from the store the last few times I needed it, but I did not quite realize how long until I was packing up the finished stock and ended up with 7 quarts!

Stock is so easy to make, I don't know why I put it off for so long. Now I have to figure out what to do with it all...

So, how do you make your own stock?

It's really simple. I'm not even sure I can make an official recipe post about it. Basically, throw a bunch of veggies into a pot. Fill your pot with water, such that it sits about 1-2 inches above all the "stuff." Bring to a boil, then let simmer 30-60 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer (or cheesecloth/flour sack towel), and store or use. That's it!

You don't even need to go out and buy veggies for this. In fact, my favorite method is to save all sorts of clean veggie scraps in the freezer until I am ready to make my stock. And I do mean all sorts...try to keep the 3 core veggies (onion family, carrot, celery), but beyond that you can save whatever you like. Things I like to use include:

• onion/shallot/garlic skin and ends
• root veggie (carrot, potato, sweet potato, parsnip, etc) and squash peels, tops, and greens
• celery leaves and tops
• sage/parsley/other herb stems
• mushroom stems
• pepper tops and cores
• corn cobs
• pea/bean pods
• any leftover or about to spoil fresh veggies (carrots, celery, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, etc)

A word of caution though: veggies in the cabbage family (cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli cauliflower) can add bitterness so use sparingly.

Used veggies can be thrown out or composted, if that's your thing. I am not good with plants, so fully admit to discarding my used veggies. Next spring I intend to give composting & gardening a go though.

What about meat stocks?

mmmm...beautiful, golden chicken stock

Add some meat and/or bones if you want a meat stock (pork, beef, poultry, fish); the bones will create a thicker stock while meat just adds flavor, more like a broth. You will need to up your simmer time to 3-6 hours. If you are using bones, make sure you get back to a simmer as boiling bones will create a cloudy stock (not that it matters for taste, just looks). Once everything has cooked down, skim off the fat if desired. Fat can also contribute to a cloudy stock, but it can help with refrigerated storage as well (read on for more details on that).

Much like the veggie stock, you don't need to go out and buy meat or bones for your meat stock. Use roast bones or fish/poultry carcasses. You can use them fresh or freeze for a later date. Cartilage, skin, and gristle are also good additions to your stock. Meat pieces can be added for additional flavor (or if there is still some stuck to the bone). For a deeper color and richer flavor, roast your bones before adding to your pot. Simply rub with olive oil and bake at 375F for 30-45 minutes, turning halfway.

Bones can be reused at least 1 more time, or until they start to break apart. Edible meat pieces that may remain can be added to stews.

If making a meat stock, you may want to consider adding some acid to help break down the bones and cartilage. You won't taste the acid in the stock, but it will add a depth of meat flavor. Choose an acid that will compliment your meat. Some ideas include vinegar, lemon juice, tomato products, and wine (red wine would be a good choice for beef).

Wait, what is the difference between stock and broth?
The terms seem pretty interchangeable, but there is a subtle difference. Simply put, broth is seasoned and stock is not. Technically speaking broth is any liquid that has had meat cooked in it (although this definition has been expanded to include non-meat variations), while stock involves bones (or cartilage/skin) making it thicker due to the gelatin being extracted.

So looking at the meat stock above, using the bones makes a stock and using the meat alone technically makes a broth. I generally don't use meat pieces alone and follow the seasoned/not seasoned rule of thumb. If you are looking to make a seasoned broth, common spices to include are bay leaf, parsley, thyme, garlic, salt, pepper/peppercorn, and clove.

You can even take things a step farther and turn your stock or broth into a concentrate. Reduce into an extra flavorful liquid that you can use as is or dilute at a rate of 1 Tbsp concentrate to 2 cups water.

So, how do I store my homemade stock?
There is some debate into the methodology of storing and preserving stocks and broths. I've seen people favor canning and say it is unsafe, and I've seen various time frames said to be refrigerator safe. However, I've done a lot or research and put together a few different methods for you to consider:

1. Refrigerating
• Seal well and store safely 3-4 days in the refrigerator
• Leave a 1/2 inch head of rendered fat sitting atop each jar, and refrigerate 6 months unopened/untampered. If the fat is punctured, you revert to the 3-4 days above.
2. Freezing
• Leave 1 inch head space in upright containers, or transfer to bags for flat storage, and freeze 3-4 months. The stock will not go bad after this time, but the flavor may seem a bit off.
• Pour concentrate into an ice cube tray for future use as is or for easy dilution. Once frozen you can transfer concentrate cubes into another container. Using the ice cube tray also gives you convenient 1 Tbsp increments.
3. Canning (Room Temp Storage)
• Pressure can pint jars at 10 lbs for 20 minutes (quart jars for 25, and I would guess 8 oz jars for about 15), adjusting as needed for high altitudes
• You cannot safely process stocks using the boiling water method, although I have seen anecdotal posts by people saying this is the method they use without issue (I would not feel comfortable recommending this method)

I feel like this post got away from me a bit...you now have more information about making your own stocks & broths than you probably wanted to know. They are so easy though, and so cheap if you use scraps and leftovers. Plus, they just taste better than store bought. Once you figure out the preservation & storage, there really isn't any reason not to make your own.