Laundry Detergent Revisted

It's been a while since I posted my original laundry soap recipe, and I've made some adjustments since then. Primarily, I chose to remove the Borax. Now, this isn't for health concerns, as the current debate on Borax may suggest, but because I found that Borax created a film or barrier on my clothing. Oil spots were not getting cleaned, and eventually over time (I'm talking 6-12 months or even years) some items had a noticeable film. They just didn't feel clean anymore, so I decided to revamp my recipe to remove the Borax. I also swapped out the Fels-Naptha for straight up castille soap. This is two fold. I didn't exactly like the scent that came with the Fels-Naptha, and it's not exactly a natural alternative (this soap includes extra chemicals). I also like knowing that, should I become that adventurous, I could make my own castille soap to use in this recipe.

DIY Laundry Soap - Redux

1 bar castille soap (5 oz)
3 c washing soda
1 c Oxyclean (or more washing soda)
1 c baking soda
30 drops essential oil (optional)

Make sure to finely grate or chop your soap. I found that freezing it for 30-60 minutes and using a food processor to be very effective, but you could use a grater or other method. Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump. My personal preference for essential oils are lavender and sandalwood, but choose whatever you enjoy the scent of or find relaxing (a great choice for bedding).

Use 1 Tbsp per load. This recipe is great for top load, front load, and HE washers (I've actually tested it in all 3). For a simple, green fabric softener use vinegar in the washer as you would liquid fabric softener, or add some wool balls to your dryer (either option can be scented using essential oils as well!). You could also make a dryer sheet by soaking a small cloth or rag in vinegar and throwing that into the dryer with your clothes.

Stripping your clothes
Wait what? Didn't removing the borax solve the problem of creating a film or layer on the material? Yes and no. Borax was the big culprit for me, but ultimately you are still using a soap. Soaps can leave films. Commercial detergents are just that, detergents (not soap). You may also just be dealing with hard water and all the sediment that comes with it. So, every now and then you may still find some build up on your clothing that you will want to remove.

Basically, you'll soak your clean clothes in hot water with a stripping solution. You can buy one or make your own. Most DIY stripping solutions are equal parts washing soda and borax. Some include (or simply just are) dish washing soap like the blue Dawn. Soak your clothes 45-60 minutes, stirring a few times. Drain and squeeze out excess water. Run your clothes through a water only wash cycle to remove any remaining solution, dirt, and oils.

The Debate on Borax

I always do a good bit of research before deciding on a DIY to trying or making my own recipes. This has included looking into Borax, as I've seen bloggers who use it without question and others who say it is an unsafe material. Crunchy Betty and Wellness Mama do a great job of collecting the arguments for both sides, but I encourage you to do your own digging as well.

The Argument Against Borax
Borax has been classified by multiple organizations as concerning. EWG ranks it as moderately hazardous. The FDA banned it as a food additive, and ECA flagged it as a high concern.

Some physiological concerns are also noted. It can be a skin irritant, and some individuals have reported chemical burns. In some studies it was shown to cause lung irritation. Ingestion of borax can cause stomach pain and sickness. Boric acid is linked to hormone disruption (males) or fertility/pregnancy issues (females, primarily animals).

Use of borax in soil has also caused crop problems. It is used in insecticides and pesticides.

The Argument for Borax
Ok, well, this is less an argument for Borax, and more of a de-bunking of the arguments against it...

Borax is a salt, not an acid. Borax (sodium tetraborate or sodium borate) is a naturally occurring mineral salt. Boric acid (hydrogen borate) is the result of borax reacting with another acid. In some places these compounds occur together (such as volcanic areas or in seawater), but the borax we are buying at the store for our DIY projects is a salt that can be found naturally in the ground.

Borax is ranked the same as baking soda or salt when it comes to MSDS data, and NIH does not really indicate it as concerning unless ingested in large quantities (just like table salt). Indigestion or skin irritation all depend on the amount of a substance used and the individual person, but that does not inherently make a substance poisonous. Also, the non-topical physiological symptoms are related to ingesting large amounts of borax, which again you could have the same issues ingesting large amounts of baking soda or table salt.

Boron (the element in borax) is actually necessary to life, in small amounts. It is a trace mineral that benefits normal growth and a healthy body by helping to strengthen cell walls. Boron is also beneficial to crop soil (boron, not boron salt or borax). However, boron has been show to cause issues for arthropods, making it a good candidate for insecticides. Boric acid is the chemical you will find in insecticides or pesticides, not borax.

Conclusion?
Honestly, it's up to you. Make your own informed decision. Personally, I used Borax in laundry soap and dishwasher detergent for years, and my only complaint was about long-term performance. Over time, I noticed that my clothes and dishes appeared to get a film. In laundry detergent this can be associated with the soap as well, but some of my research suggested borax could also be a culprit.

If you choose to remove Borax from your repertoire, don't worry about having to find all new recipes. You can very easily replace Borax with washing soda in any cleaning product recipe and have good results. This won't make your whites whiter, but it should help if you are having issues getting things clean and removing that film.

Homemade Laundry & Dishwasher Soap

A good friend of mine has been making her own laundry soap for years, and she always spoils me with a batch. Recently she hosted a green cleaning seminar with Clean Mama herself. Feeling revitalized, and having won her Simply Clean book in a raffle, I went home and set about getting supplies to make my own cleaners! Since both the laundry & dishwasher soap contain similar ingredients, I started with a batch of each.

DIY Laundry Soap

1 bar Fels-Naptha soap (or castille soap)*
2 c borax
1 c washing soda
1 c Oxyclean (or more washing soda)
1 c baking soda
30 drops essential oil (optional)

Make sure to finely grate or chop your soap. I found that freezing it for 30-60 minutes and using a food processor to be very effective, but you could use a grater or other method. Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump. My personal preference for essential oils are lavender and sandalwood, but choose whatever you enjoy the scent of or find relaxing (a great choice for bedding).

Use 1 Tbsp per load. This recipe is great for top load, front load, and HE washers (I've actually tested it in all 3). For a simple, green fabric softener use vinegar in the washer as you would liquid fabric softener, or add some wool balls to your dryer (either option can be scented using essential oils as well!)

*If you are looking to create a vegan soap, be careful which bar you choose. Both Fels-Naptha and Zote use tallow, but castille bars by definition are 100% vegetable oil (typically olive oil). Some verified vegan brands of castille soap are Dr. Bronner, Kirk's, and Mrs. Meyer's. All other ingredients are mineral-based, but you may want to dig into which brands are cruelty-free.

DIY Dishwasher Soap

1 c borax (or baking soda)
1 c washing soda
1/2 c kosher salt
1/2 c citric acid
20 drops essential oil (optional)

Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump. My personal preference for essential oils in this application is citrus, such as lemon, grapefruit, or a blend. I currently am using a cleansing blend of lemon, clove, eucalyptus, and rosemary.

I've also seen recipes floating around that add castille soap. If you are concerned about the lack of soap vs cleaning agent, feel free to add about 1/4 cup finely grated castille soap (sorry, I'm not sure how that translates into bars as I don't add it myself). Make sure you grab castille soap, you do not want a soap that suds in this mixture!

Something you will want to note is that the citric acid will attract moisture and may cause your soap to clump (or if you are really unlucky, fuse into 1 large block). This won't hurt anything, but it can be annoying and may make it harder for your soap to dissolve. Two good tips I've found are to leave your soap in a large, uncovered bowl for a couple days to let it dry out (make sure to stir it periodically to help break up any clumps), and to make a desiccant to keep in your container to absorb any excess moisture (for example powdered clay or dry rice in an empty tea bag, pantyhose, or sock).

Use 1 Tbsp per load. For a simple rinse agent, use white vinegar.

Now, there are some arguments against using Borax. I'm still working my way through the data, but as yet have not come across concrete examples of Borax actually being harmful (just some arguments that it could be). I encourage you to do your own digging as well. Crunchy Betty does a great job of collecting the arguments for both sides. That being said, I am looking into alternate solutions out of curiosity. In the meantime, I've been using laundry soap with Borax for years and have no complaints.