My Hair Care Routine

As part of a transition to a more natural/green lifestyle, I've not only begun making chemical-free cleaning products & toiletries, I have adjusted the way I live. This includes a transition to more sustainable household items (such as slowly phasing out plastics for glass, ceramic, and metal), and adjusting my habits.

No-poo is a huge movement, and believe me I have made a good effort to follow this, but there are a few things that get in my way. My hair is super oily, even after months I was not able to go more than 3 days or so without an actual wash (dry shampoo only does so much, and eventually you will get build-up). I also found the baking soda method too abrasive for my scalp, and drying/damaging to my hair. So I experimented with making my own products and have a routine I can rely on.

This routine allows me to wash my hair 1-2 times per week. You'll notice it's not an exact schedule, as there are different factors going into how many days I can follow each step. Generally speaking though, I wash my hair every 3-4 days. However I have also found that if I need to wash a few days in a row, getting back into this routine is easy ad I don't need to readjust.

Day 1: Wash with homemade shampoo and conditioner

If I have the patience I'll let my hair air dry, but on particularly cold days or if I have somewhere to be early I have broken out my blow dryer (I always leave it damp/air-dry for a little bit even when I blow dry). I also am bad and will towel dry/scrub instead of t-shirt dry/squeeze. It's suppose to be damaging to your hair if you scrub it with a towel, but I haven't had problems and am an impatient person who likes my damp hair to still feel somewhat dried.







Day 2-4: Brush hair/Rinse with water

L: Dry Brush; R: Rinse & Brush

If you have a boar bristle brush, this can help you more evenly distribute sebum and oils. Some naturalists also recommend brushing thoroughly, with your head upright then upside down a couple times for proper oil distribution. I'm lazy so this doesn't normally happen--most of the time I just use my paddle brush lol. Usually my hair is still clean enough to leave down without feeling oily or heavy. If I am particularly active on this day, I may need to put it up.


Most days I still rinse my hair with water while I shower. I'll usually give it a quick brush before hopping in the shower. I saturate my hair and massage my scalp a bit, then rinse again.

Sometimes I can go up to 3 days only brushing and rinsing my hair. Other times I can only go a day or two. A lot of depends on how active I am, what the weather is like (and if I'm out in said weather), etc. I've found the farther I get into this habit, and the less I rely on dry shampoo, that it is much easier to push 2 or 3 days. Over the hot holiday weekend I was able to last a full 3 days, and we were out in the heat each day.


Day 3/4/5/6: Dry shampoo

In all honesty, I normally apply the dry shampoo the night before. I use a makeup brush to apply directly to my roots (in parts/lines about 1-2 inches apart along the front/sides, and also from my crown down to nape). Normally I'll work it in a little bit with my finger tips, and then I leave my hair down and go to bed. This allows the dry shampoo to collect all kinds of oils and evenly distribute itself. In the morning, I just brush my hair and style as usual.

I usually don't rinse my hair when using dry shampoo. I find that the oil build up still weighs down my hair. If I am on day 3 or 4, sometimes I'll still give it a try.

I also normally only do this 1 day, but sometimes I can pull off 2 days in a row. I tend to find the build up of 2 applications on top of my hair's oils to be too much. This is usually when I try giving my hair a rinse. I haven't found applying at night and rinsing or rinsing in the morning and applying when dry to be more effective than the other.

Also, sometimes I completely skip the dry shampoo day and move on to washing. Usually this will be if I'm pushing 3 days with no product.


Spot Treatment: Spritz with hair refresher

L: Before; R: After

If on any day my hair seems stringy, dry, lackluster, dull, or just looks heavy and lifeless, I will use my homemade refresher spray to give some life back to my hair. In fact, I use this most days where I'm not actually washing my hair. This conditions my hair which gives some shine and body back without having to get your hair completely wet. The brief dampness can also help with any specific styling needs.



Swimming: Water is your friend

My workout of choice is swimming. I frankly hate the gym, running (arbitrarily, I'm fine taking the dog out or if I have a destination, same with biking). Swimming is a great full body workout, and I supplement it with yoga. However that chlorine... Wetting your hair before swimming fills your hair up with water, leaving little room for chlorinated water to soak in. I also find that tying my hair back helps keep everything tight and protected against chlorine, or if you are up to it a swim cap will offer lots of protection. If you swim regularly, like I do, you may want to use a DIY conditioner to revitalize your locks.

I am still a newbie to a more natural hair care routine. I've only been trying this out for a little over 1 year and I went through a few different attempts before I found this system which I am happy with. Lucy over at Happy Hair has all kinds of advice, so if you don't find answer here check our her 5-year FAQ. I am particularly interested in checking out soap nuts myself n_~

DIY Hair Conditioner

So we've already covered a spray-in conditioner, but to go with my shampoo recipe, I wanted a conditioner to use in the shower as part of my routine. Apple Cider Vinegar is a great conditioner just on it's own, but you can also infuse it with herbs to get all kinds of extra benefits. Today's post will consist of 3 different options for you, each improving on the one before it.

ACV Hair Rinse
2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 qt water

Mix these together at the time of your shower and just pour over your hair after rinsing out your shampoo. I've seen other bloggers recommend equal parts ACV and water (at 1/4 cup to 2/3 cup each, depending on the length and thickness of your hair), but you really don't need that much ACV. I also find diluting it in a quart of water gives you ample liquid to fully saturate your hair.

You don't need to rinse this out either. You can follow-up with an all water rinse if desired, but it's not necessary. Don't worry if you smell a bit like ACV, it will dissipate quickly (and frankly, you are the only one who will notice until it does).

ACV Herbal Hair Rinse

1 quart apple cider vinegar (the kind with the mother)
1 cup herbs of choice (Wellness Mama has a great herb combo)
water

Combine herbs and vinegar in a large jar and secure cover. Infuse for about 4 weeks in a cool, dark place. Shake every other day or so, then strain through cheesecloth.

When you are ready to use your herbal rinse, dilute approximately 2 Tbsp infused vinegar in 1 quart water (or whatever ratio works best for you, up to equal parts). You can leave in as your final rinse or follow with an all-water rinse.

I have found that this has a very herby/earthy scent. If you want something a little more pleasing, you could add essential oils to your finished product. Personally, I have not tried this out but would say 45-50 drops of scents pleasing to you (or complimentary to the herbs you choose) should be sufficient. I would likely use equal parts lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary as they are all beneficial to hair and would be inline with the herbs I use as well as the scent for my dry shampoo.



What herbs do I use?
Wellness Mama and I actually have a lot of overlap between the herbs I prefer and what she recommends (I pretty much just sub lemongrass for basil). I will let you visit her blog for her recommendations & amounts, or you can peruse this list and decide which herbs and how much of each you want to use:

Horsetail strengthens your hair and also can help control oily hair thanks to its astringent properties.

Nettle is full of vitamins and minerals that will nourish and improve scalp health, as well as make your hair stronger and more vibrant.

Basil nourishes your scalp, promotes hair growth, and helps remove toxins and heavy metals.

Lavender is great for mixed skin types and will moisturize dry skin as well as calm inflammation. This also aids in controlling dandruff. It increases circulation which promotes hair health and growth.

Rosemary helps control sebum production, especially beneficial for oily hair and to aid in controlling dandruff from dry and itchy scalps. It also affects circulation promoting hair health and growth. It's slightly astringent properties strengthen hair follicles which helps prevent hair loss.

Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. It also soothes irritated and itchy scalps helping to reduce dandruff, as well as promotes general hair health and growth.

Slippery Elm Bark stimulates hair growth, softens hair (provides slip and glide), and soothes the scalp.

Marshmallow Root has the same benefits as slippery elm, but also adds shine to lackluster locks.

ACV Cream Rinse

2 Tbsp coconut oil
2 Tbsp shea or cocoa butter
1 Tbsp beeswax (or BTMS-50 emulsifying wax)

1/2 c apple cider vinegar (raw or infused)
1/2 c water
1/2 c coconut milk
1/2 - 1 tsp xanthum gum (depending on desired consistency)




For those of you that prefer a cream rinse, I did some experimenting. Shea butter and coconut oil are both known for their moisturizing properties, which are not only limited to the skin (and in fact are both present in the commercial conditioner I used to buy). And combined, they make a wonderful body butter, so I decided to start with that base and add the ACV rinse until I got a consistency I was happy with.

To make this cream rinse, you will need to start by melting your coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax in a double boiler. While those are melting down, whisk together your liquids and xanthum gum. The xanthum helps the liquids mix into the fats.

Just like a body butter, let your oil mixture cool slightly, until it just starts to solidify (if you poke your finger into it, it should make a dent). Before your mixture solidifies completely, take out your hand mixer or immersion blender and start whipping to form a body butter like consistency. Slowly pour in you liquid mixture and continue whipping until fully incorporated and you have an even texture throughout (it will be like an emulsified dressing).

Use as you would commercial conditioner. I use about a quarter sized amount and work through the length of my hair, focusing more on the ends and less on the roots/scalp. Rinse with water.

I find this conditioner very moisturizing, so I don't use it for each wash. About once per month (I only wash my hair 2-3 times per week, so every 8-10th wash; if you wash your hair daily you might be able to use this as frequently as once per week) is enough for me, and it gives my locks some new life.

Humblebee & Me also has a good looking 2-in-1 formula. I haven't tried it out, but it did provide some inspiration for my cream rinse recipe.

Dishwasher Detergent Revisited

As with my laundry soap, I've made some adjustments over time to my original dishwasher detergent recipe. Again I chose to remove the Borax because I found that it was leaving a film on my dishes. I also decided to add some castille soap for a little extra cleaning action.

DIY Dishwasher Soap - Redux

2 c washing soda
1/2 c kosher salt
1/2 c citric acid
1/4 c castille soap*, finely grated
(approximately 1/2 bar or 2-3 oz)
20 drops essential oil (optional)

Make sure to finely grate or chop your soap. I found that freezing it for 30-60 minutes and using a food processor to be very effective, but you could use a grater or other method. Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump.

My personal preference for essential oils in this application is citrus, such as lemon, grapefruit, or a blend. I currently am using a cleansing blend of lemon, clove, eucalyptus, and rosemary.


Something you will want to note is that the citric acid will attract moisture and may cause your soap to clump (or if you are really unlucky, as I have been in the past, fuse into 1 large block). This won't hurt anything, but it can be annoying and may make it harder for your soap to dissolve. Two good tips I've found are to leave your soap in a large, uncovered bowl for a couple days to let it dry out (make sure to stir it periodically to help break up any clumps), and to make a desiccant to keep in your container to absorb any excess moisture (for example powdered clay or dry rice in an empty tea bag, pantyhose, or sock).

To Make Tablets: Add about 1 cup of water to your dry mixture. Your mix will fizz up, just let it. Once the fizzing has stopped you will have a wet sand like texture. Scoop your detergent into molds (ice cube trays are good) and pack firmly. Let dry uncovered for at least 24 hours (or until completely dry). Store in an air-tight container.

Use 1 Tbsp (or 1 tablet) per load. For a simple rinse agent, use white vinegar. If that is not cutting it, you can always pour some vinegar into the bottom of your dishwasher and/or mist your dishes with vinegar while they dry. I also recommend making sure to clean your dishwasher itself if you are having build-up, sediment, or film issues (including cleaning that drain trap). I have also heard that using homemade dishwasher detergents with plastics can cause a film on your non-plastics.

*Make sure you grab castille soap, you do not want a soap that suds in this mixture!

Laundry Detergent Revisted

It's been a while since I posted my original laundry soap recipe, and I've made some adjustments since then. Primarily, I chose to remove the Borax. Now, this isn't for health concerns, as the current debate on Borax may suggest, but because I found that Borax created a film or barrier on my clothing. Oil spots were not getting cleaned, and eventually over time (I'm talking 6-12 months or even years) some items had a noticeable film. They just didn't feel clean anymore, so I decided to revamp my recipe to remove the Borax. I also swapped out the Fels-Naptha for straight up castille soap. This is two fold. I didn't exactly like the scent that came with the Fels-Naptha, and it's not exactly a natural alternative (this soap includes extra chemicals). I also like knowing that, should I become that adventurous, I could make my own castille soap to use in this recipe.

DIY Laundry Soap - Redux

1 bar castille soap (5 oz)
3 c washing soda
1 c Oxyclean (or more washing soda)
1 c baking soda
30 drops essential oil (optional)

Make sure to finely grate or chop your soap. I found that freezing it for 30-60 minutes and using a food processor to be very effective, but you could use a grater or other method. Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump. My personal preference for essential oils are lavender and sandalwood, but choose whatever you enjoy the scent of or find relaxing (a great choice for bedding).

Use 1 Tbsp per load. This recipe is great for top load, front load, and HE washers (I've actually tested it in all 3). For a simple, green fabric softener use vinegar in the washer as you would liquid fabric softener, or add some wool balls to your dryer (either option can be scented using essential oils as well!). You could also make a dryer sheet by soaking a small cloth or rag in vinegar and throwing that into the dryer with your clothes.

Stripping your clothes
Wait what? Didn't removing the borax solve the problem of creating a film or layer on the material? Yes and no. Borax was the big culprit for me, but ultimately you are still using a soap. Soaps can leave films. Commercial detergents are just that, detergents (not soap). You may also just be dealing with hard water and all the sediment that comes with it. So, every now and then you may still find some build up on your clothing that you will want to remove.

Basically, you'll soak your clean clothes in hot water with a stripping solution. You can buy one or make your own. Most DIY stripping solutions are equal parts washing soda and borax. Some include (or simply just are) dish washing soap like the blue Dawn. Soak your clothes 45-60 minutes, stirring a few times. Drain and squeeze out excess water. Run your clothes through a water only wash cycle to remove any remaining solution, dirt, and oils.

The Debate on Borax

I always do a good bit of research before deciding on a DIY to trying or making my own recipes. This has included looking into Borax, as I've seen bloggers who use it without question and others who say it is an unsafe material. Crunchy Betty and Wellness Mama do a great job of collecting the arguments for both sides, but I encourage you to do your own digging as well.

The Argument Against Borax
Borax has been classified by multiple organizations as concerning. EWG ranks it as moderately hazardous. The FDA banned it as a food additive, and ECA flagged it as a high concern.

Some physiological concerns are also noted. It can be a skin irritant, and some individuals have reported chemical burns. In some studies it was shown to cause lung irritation. Ingestion of borax can cause stomach pain and sickness. Boric acid is linked to hormone disruption (males) or fertility/pregnancy issues (females, primarily animals).

Use of borax in soil has also caused crop problems. It is used in insecticides and pesticides.

The Argument for Borax
Ok, well, this is less an argument for Borax, and more of a de-bunking of the arguments against it...

Borax is a salt, not an acid. Borax (sodium tetraborate or sodium borate) is a naturally occurring mineral salt. Boric acid (hydrogen borate) is the result of borax reacting with another acid. In some places these compounds occur together (such as volcanic areas or in seawater), but the borax we are buying at the store for our DIY projects is a salt that can be found naturally in the ground.

Borax is ranked the same as baking soda or salt when it comes to MSDS data, and NIH does not really indicate it as concerning unless ingested in large quantities (just like table salt). Indigestion or skin irritation all depend on the amount of a substance used and the individual person, but that does not inherently make a substance poisonous. Also, the non-topical physiological symptoms are related to ingesting large amounts of borax, which again you could have the same issues ingesting large amounts of baking soda or table salt.

Boron (the element in borax) is actually necessary to life, in small amounts. It is a trace mineral that benefits normal growth and a healthy body by helping to strengthen cell walls. Boron is also beneficial to crop soil (boron, not boron salt or borax). However, boron has been show to cause issues for arthropods, making it a good candidate for insecticides. Boric acid is the chemical you will find in insecticides or pesticides, not borax.

Conclusion?
Honestly, it's up to you. Make your own informed decision. Personally, I used Borax in laundry soap and dishwasher detergent for years, and my only complaint was about long-term performance. Over time, I noticed that my clothes and dishes appeared to get a film. In laundry detergent this can be associated with the soap as well, but some of my research suggested borax could also be a culprit.

If you choose to remove Borax from your repertoire, don't worry about having to find all new recipes. You can very easily replace Borax with washing soda in any cleaning product recipe and have good results. This won't make your whites whiter, but it should help if you are having issues getting things clean and removing that film.