Essential Oil Self-Care Kit

I put together a gift set for a dear family member who has been suffering from mental illness. Her group therapy brought up the idea of essential oils and she reached out asking for my guidance. Now, I'm no expert, but I did some digging and hit up reputable aromatherapists (such as Andrea Butje from Aromahead Institute), and came up with a  small gift set for her.

I sent over 4 stock blends, a rollerball, room spray, lotion, and bath salts. I also put together a mini booklet so she had the tools to replenish or get creative with new blends. I decided to share that information with all of you too!

Essential Oils for Mental Health
Even though I was making stock blends and toiletries, I wanted to provide a list of oils that could be used and mixed as desired. Most, if not all, of these are mentioned in the recipes that follow, but you can always play around with your own blends in order to find an aroma that is pleasing and has the desired result.

• lavender
• frankincense
• orange
• neroli
• vetiver
• mandarin
• black spruce
• Roman chamomile
• cedar wood
• sandalwood
• peppermint
• geranium
• ylang ylang
• bergamot

Stock Blends
Stock blends are a great way to use your oils in a variety of ways. My recommendation was to diffuse them in some way or another, but you could add to a bath with epsom salt, mix into a plain lotion or massage oil, and more. I put together some safe ratios for different use types:

• Inhaler: 10-15 drops
• Diffuser Jewelry: 1-3 drops
• Car Diffuser: 1-3 drops
• Room Diffuser: 3-5 drops per 100 ml
• Rollerball: 10 drops per 10 ml
• Spray: 8-10 drops per 1 oz

The following stock blends all make approximately 1 dram (which is also equivalent to 4ml or 1/8 oz). Feel free to multiply and make larger batches if needed. Store your blends in glass bottles and keep out of direct sunlight (tinted glass in a cool place is even better).

Anxiety Blend
32 drops lavender
32 drops frankincense
8 drops mandarin

Depression Blend
30 drops geranium
26 drops Roman chamomile
6 drops peppermint

Stress Blend #1
30 drops lavender
30 drops frankincense
15 drops black spruce

Stress Blend #2
25 drops orange
25 drops frankincense
25 drops cedar wood

Relaxation Blend
30 drops mandarin
30 drops bergamot
15 drops lavender

Relaxing Bath Salts
Baths are a great way to chill out and relax. Light some candles, let your body relax along with your mind, and just take some time to get away from it all. These bath salts will help you calm down and fight those dark feelings, while also pampering your body.

1 1/2 cup epsom salt
3 Tbsp baking soda
1 Tbsp dried chamomile
1 Tbsp dried lavender
6 Tbsp liquid castille
18 drops frankincense
6 drops neroli
6 drops orange

The soap is necessary to dilute the essential oils. I like to mix all my dry ingredients together in a large bowl, then combine my soap and oils in a smaller bowl. Don't stir the soap and oils too much or you will get suds, but mix enough to make sure the oils have dispersed. Gently mix the soap and oils into your dry ingredients. Your salts will remain somewhat wet, but won't cake together.

Alternately, you could use a carrier oil in place of the castille soap. Jojoba is a great choice as it nourishes the skin. I opt for castille soap because the carrier oils still just kind of chill on the water's surface, whereas I feel the soap mixes in better. The amount of soap won't give you a crazy, sudsy bath (but you can add more if bubble baths are your thing!).

To use, mix 1/4 - 1/2 cup into your bath water. This recipe is good for 4-8 uses. Store in an airtight container, preferably glass or PET plastic.

Restful Sleep Room/Linen Spray
I planned for this to function mainly as a linen spray, but there's no reason you can't use it to freshen up a room or your space. Spray gently on pillows, blankets, sheets, sleeping masks, and any other bedding before sleep to help you drift off calmly. Apply to towels or your robe to continue a soothing bath experience. Spray in your bedroom before going to sleep, or in your car before travel. The scent will dissipate more in a room that on your linens, but it's also a great alternative if you can't burn incense in your space.

4oz witch hazel
10 drops vetiver
10 drops lavender
6 drops orange

Combine all ingredients in a 4 oz glass spray bottle. You can also use PET plastic, but the essential oils will slowly erode other plastics. The plastic sprayers that come with bottles tend to hold up, so no need to worry there. Store out of direct sunlight and/or use a tinted bottle to extend shelf life.

You can also use water or hydrosols in place of the witch hazel. I tend to like witch hazel because it usually comes in a partially alcoholic solution which helps with evaporation. Witch hazel is also fairly neutral in scent, versus hydrosols which will also cost you a pretty penny.

Because water & oil don't mix, make sure to shake up your bottle before spraying. The oils are fairly diluted, so there isn't a hard cap as to how much you should use at a time, but 4 oz will likely last quite a while and the scent will still be fairly strong with just a few pumps.

Calming Lotion
This recipe is for a small 1 oz batch of lotion. It's actually more of a body butter, and a little goes a long way. Also, you can tuck that 1 oz jar into your bag and take it with you. Use when you need a little me time but are out and about, or enjoy at home after a relaxing bath or before bed.

1 1/2 Tbsp shea butter
1/2 Tbsp coconut oil
5 drops vetiver
4 drops neroli
3 drops lavender

Melt the shea butter and coconut oil (in a double boiler, or you microwave). Allow to cool but not harden, then stir in your essential oils. While still viscous, pour into a 1 oz container. I like to use small class jars with screw caps, but you could also use a tin or PET plastic.

This lotion will get soft in higher temps, so store in a cool place when not in use (or in your fridge! which is a great idea if you make a larger batch).

Emergency Rollerball Perfume 
Also called "Liquid Xanax," this is a great on-the-go solution. Apply when the feelings of stress, anxiety, and/or depression overwhelm you. Or wear to keep those feelings away before they begin (it smells lovely!).

4 drops ylang ylang
4 drops lavender
2 drops chamomile
2 drops sandalwood
2 drops frankincense
10 ml (1/3 oz) carrier oil of choice

When making a roller ball, I always recommend adding your essential oils first, then just topping off with your carrier oil. If you do it the other way around, you risk not leaving enough room for your essential oils. I also find this way everything mixes up a little more evenly.

My usual carrier oil of choice is fractionated coconut oil because it is fairly neutral. However jojoba is another popular carrier that is good for your skin. But don't feel limited; you can use stuff in your kitchen like palm kernel or olive oil ;)

This is for a 10 ml rollerball, which is probably the most popular size (if you were to buy a rollerball blend commercially, it would be this size). However, you can easily cut this in half or make larger batches if you want a smaller travel bottle or to stock up.

Pest Control: Moths

Looks like we've got a theme going on here! This week we have been infested by moths. If you've never had to deal with a moth infestation, you are lucky. This is the second time I've had to deal with them. The first time they were brought in with something (I don't recall what as it was years ago now), and they were a nightmare to get rid of! They stuck around forever and ruined some of my clothes and paper items in storage. This time I wanted to get aggressive to avoid all that trouble. So once again, I've done a lot of digging and am sharing methods that have worked for me.

1. Cedar
There's a reason cedar wood has been used for centuries (we're talking as far back as Ancient Greece). Using a cedar trunk (or wardrobe/armoire if you are lucky enough!) to protect your valuables is a great move. You can also get cedar hangers or planks to hang in your closets. Unfortunately our most recent moth problem is in our kitchen & living room! These are fairly open spaces, so small bits of cedar are less effective. However, cedar chips in a sachet can be placed in cabinets or other places where you commonly see moths.

One important note is that the effectiveness of cedar is linked to the oils in the wood. So fresh cedar is going to be more effective (after about 1 year from being cut, it will start to lose efficacy). To maximize on the benefit of larger cedar pieces such as trunks, you want to make sure your items are not infested when stored & that your item is airtight/rarely opened. For older cedar items, sanding them down a bit or applying cedar oil can increase their effectiveness over time.

2. Vinegar
Cleaning your house with a simple vinegar solution will kill eggs and help keep the moths at bay. You could also use a soap solution or stronger (chemical) cleaners. Whichever your choice, you will want to make sure you really scour the area. For kitchens, this means the cabinets & pantries; for bedrooms this means closets & dressers. Really scrub and make sure you've removed all signs of moths such as webbing, eggs, dust, and any sticky surfaces (which are indicative of moth secretions, particularly in the kitchen). Boiling water in any of your solutions will also help kill any larvae or eggs it comes in contact with.

While you're at it, add vacuuming to your cleaning repertoire. You can suck up any egg sacks, larvae, etc.

3. Dried Herbs & Essential Oils
While moth balls are certainly effective (in small spaces), they are full of chemicals. If you want a natural alternative, consider making sachets or potpourris of dried herbs. Effective herbs you can use and easily access include:

• Rosemary
• Thyme
• Cloves
• Lavender
• Bay Leaves
• Lemon Balm
• Peppermint 
• Lilac
• Cinnamon

You can also use essential oils. You can sprinkle them on your cloths, create a room spray, use a diffuser, or simply apply to cotton balls. I personally like to use cotton balls as they are easy to check & reapply. Also I use this technique for ants, so I am able to choose oils that repel both pests within my kitchen. In addition to cedar &  the above list of herbs, the following oils are effective:

• Vetiver
• Sandalwood
• Sage
• Orange Blossom
• Geranium
• Lemongrass
• Bergamot
• Grapefruit
• Eucalyptus
• Patchouli

Lavender is very popularly used, so that one probably doesn't come as a surprise. I must admit that the others were all new to me, but I love that I have alternatives and can grow some of these myself (well, in theory...I am notoriously bad at gardening).

4. Washing your clothing, bedding, etc & Storing it properly
Simply washing your clothes is a great way to remove & kill moths. Dry on high heat to kill any eggs that may remain. If your clothing cannot be conventionally washed/dried, freezing or ironing it will also kill of moths & eggs (or dry clean, if that is how your item must be cared for). Air drying in the sun or with a blow dryer is also effective, especially for clothing that has recently been taken out of storage.

For natural fibers, you can also brush the material before storing in your closet. Moth eggs often enter the home via clothing or other materials that were outside. This simple action can remove eggs before they become a problem.

Proper storage of your clothing is also essential. Make sure your clothing is well ventilated & thoroughly dried (moths like humid environments). Seasonal items that may not get frequent use or regular washing should be stored in airtight spaces to prevent moths from getting to them--this is particularly useful for wool items.

Moths typically stay away from cotton and synthetic fibers. If you have an infestation, it is still wise to treat these items. However, when it comes to storage, wrapping your other clothing in cotton or a synthetic fiber may add an extra layer of protection. Air tight storage is still your best bet.

5. Creating airtight spaces
We've somewhat gone over this already, when it comes to clothes & bedding, but even in the kitchen this is a concern. It you are able, it is a good idea to caulk various entry points such as cracks in the back of the pantry/closet, where shelves & cabinets meet the wall.

Again, airtight storage for clothing (especially wool/fur/feathers & seasonal items) is very helpful in keeping moths away. Likewise, store open food in airtight containers. This does not kill moths as they will eat your clothing & food, but it can keep them out of non-infested items. Be aware moths can eat through cardboard and light plastic.

6. Check your food!
While moths will typically enter your household by clothing that has picked up eggs, or other items being brought indoors after sitting outdoors or some time, they can also enter your house with the food you buy! Bulk dry food is the biggest concern here, but even prepackaged foods can include moth eggs (I know, it's gross to think about!).

Any food that is infected should be disposed of in an airtight bag. Bulk items should also be check & disposed of. You can freeze items to ensure any moth eggs are dead as well. Even if you don't see signs of moths in your food, a musty or off smell when you are not near expiration is an indicator that your food may have been compromised.

7. DIY Moth Traps
You can buy pheremone traps, which I've heard are very effective, or create your own. One popular method is applying oil to paper (regular oil to brightly colored paper until sticky, and fish oil to fly paper are the two I've seen mentioned).

You can also do a 3:1 mixture of cornmeal & borax. The moths are attracted to and eat the cornmeal, and the borax will poison & kill them. Borax is a salt, but also can be harmful to children and pets if ingested, so keep these traps out of reach. Diatomaceous earth will also harm moths, but this is safe for pets & children.

Pest Control: Mosquitoes

Ants aren't the only pests that plague my home. This summer it's been hard to enjoy a day outside without getting eaten alive by mosquitoes and other biting bugs. My favorite commercial product is All Terrain Herbal Armor, but being a DIYer I've done the footwork to identify some effective methods you can whip up yourself.

1. Home Made Bug Spray
May favorite recipe is UEOS Tick Off/Bug Off. I made some adjustments because patchouli is not a favored scent int his house, so we used the cedar wood Lea recommends. I also scrapped the hydrosols all together (they are pricey and I had to accommodate a lavender allergy), so I just used equal parts water & witch hazel.

2. Mosquito Repelling Garden
There are a ton of plants that will deter mosquitoes and other biting bugs. If you have a green thumb (I sadly do not), you may want to make a small garden to keep the bugs away. I've always wanted to use railing planters around my deck to keep it bug free. There are a ton of plants to choose from, but some of my favorites are:

• chrysanthemum
• melissa (lemon balm)
• catnip
• citronella
• gernaium

There are quite a few others as well, that are really common and you may find them in your herb garden or regular flower bed:

• petunias
• basil
• lavender 
• marigold
• rosemary
• mint
• alliums (garlic, chives, onions, etc)
• lemongrass
• lemon thyme

A lot of these plants keep other pests away too.

3. Candles/Torches
You are probably well aware of citronella candles & tiki torches. You can use store bought ones, or make your own candles, torches & luminaries to keep the bugs away. My favorite is the luminary from A Little Claireification which looks pretty, smells great, and is effective at keeping the bugs away.

4. Smudging
Smoke generally will keep the bugs away, but there are some specific items you can add to your fire to improve the effect:

• cardboard egg cartons
• sage

5. Natural Predators
Encourage a habitat for natural predators of mosquitoes. Hang bird feeders & bat houses to invite them into your yard. If you have a pond, add some fish, turtles, or frogs.

Pest Control: Ants

Is your home being overtaken by ants? Are you struggling to control them in a kid-safe, pet-safe, and/or eco-friendly way? That was me before I did a ton of digging and found safe ways to rid my homes of ants without risking my dog or any visiting kiddos.

My favorite commerical method is EcoSMART, but I've also heard good things about Aunt Fannie's and like that their products come in regular spray bottles. But if you prefer DIY like I do, read on for my tried & true methods.

1. Essential Oils for Deterrence

• cinnamon
• peppermint
• eucalyptus
• clove
• lemon (or other citrus)
• tea tree

Essential oils are a great way to keep ants away. I like to put a few drops on cotton balls and place throughout my house. We have literally watched ants actively avoid these cotton balls or do an about-face. I like to tuck these into my pantry and by entry points. You can also use essential oils in a home made ant spray.

2. Disrupt Their Scent Trail

• lemon juice
• bleach
• vinegar
• soap

Creating a diluted spray with any of the above (solo or in combination, inclusion of essential oils is a good idea too!), wil create a multi-purpose spray. Spray where you have seen ants to disrupt their scent trail, spray around your home or entry points to act as a deterrent, and the natural soap will actually kill ants as well if sprayed directly on them. Primarily I use these ingredients to clean & create a barrier that will disorient ants and keep them away.

3. Create a Barrier

• flour
• chalk (powdered, or just draw a line)
• cornmeal
• cream of wheat
• coffee grounds
• diatomaceous earth
• ground cinnamon
• ground clove
• black pepper

The advantage to using powders to create a barrier are two-fold: these items are generally safe for ingestion by people & pets (maybe keep the coffee grounds away if kids/pets are a concern), and you can tell when it's time to redo your barrier. There are some additional benefits to a few of these items as well: cornmeal, cream of wheat, and DE actually kill ants.

4. Boiling Water
Boiling water is a pretty simple solution. It will kill the ants, but is about the most natural way to do so. Either mix boiling water with some soap to spray ants in your house, or pour boiling water into ant hills outside your home.

5. Borax
Borax will actually kill ants, and can be harmful to pets & children if ingested (just like any other salt in large quantities). If using Borax, I recommend doing so away from pets & children. You can mix Borax into sugar water (add liquid soap for some extra power), or mix it with honey & peanut butter.

6. Baking Soda & Powdered Sugar
As an alternative to Borax, which is harmful to kids & pets if ingested, you can mix baking soda & powdered sugar.

DIY Firestarters / Grill Lighter Cubes

If you follow me on Instagram, you have probably noticed this summer the boy & I have decided to become grill masters! Well, maybe not masters, but we have definitely made the venture into lump charcoal and are learning how to use our Weber to smoke meats. Pizza is on the agenda as well!

Even though we used briquettes for a while, the boy was concerned about how we would light our charcoal. For a while we had an electric starter, but it became cumbersome. We considered getting a chimney, but he didn't want to deal with potential unreliability of lighting paper (also he didn't want to use paper with colored ink on it, so the alternative would have been using up our printer supply). So we picked up Weber's lighter cubes, and they worked great. We could use anywhere between 1 and 3 cubes, depending on how much charcoal we were using.

After we upgraded to lump charcoal, however, we found we needed a chimney anyway because the varying sizes of each piece made it difficult to ensure an even burn. But again, the paper problem, so we kept using the lighter cubes. 1 cube was enough to get an entire chimney going. Then we ran out and forgot to get more, which almost put the breaks on our last minute steak dinner as no local stores carried these lighter cubes. Not to be inconvenienced, I decided to try out making my own.

Weber's lighter cubes are small paraffin wax cubes. You get 24 in a box for about $3-4 dollars. I don't have paraffin on hand, but I almost always have beeswax pellets these days. So I melted some down & soaked a cotton ball. It took a tad longer to light, but worked a dream. With that success, I made a whole batch!

Beeswax Lighter Cubes
100% cotton egg carton (bottom w/ no ink)
18 cotton balls
2 cups food-grade beeswax pellets










When I made my first trial, I just melted about 1 Tbsp of wax and let a cotton ball soak it up. We used it before the wax could even dry, and had no problems. However, to make a bulk batch, I knew that process would not be the most efficient, so I've refined it a bit.

In a double boiler (or you can put a heat-safe glass container in a pot of boiling water), melt your wax. This may take some time, and stirring to break up chunks can help move it along. While your wax is melting place your cotton balls into your egg carton. Once the wax is melted, pour it over your cotton balls. They will want to soak up as much wax as possible, so do your best to evenly distribute it. You may also need to flip or rotate the cotton balls.

The egg carton is totally optional here, but it made the process easier for me. Otherwise, you are stuck dipping each cotton ball into your melted wax, and then you need to find somewhere for them to dry!

Once dry, they are ready to store or use. I like to prep the carton by cutting off any extra bits along the outside and between each compartment (this allows for an easy tear-off option). Using the egg cartons vs straight up cotton balls gives you a large-ish piece, so you may be able to cut them in half and stretch them out even farther.








To use, place under your charcoal chimney, directly on your charcoal pile, or in the middle of your campfire. Light it up and let your coals or campfire do it's thing. This is organic & food-safe, as long as your egg carton does not have color ink. This is also a lot cheaper! For $10 you can get 1lb of beeswax and 200 cotton balls. I haven't done a mass batch yet, but 1lb of beeswax should easily be enough for 100 cotton balls, and honestly could probably get you pretty far into the full 200. The egg carton is optional, but if you use one it should be recycled which means no extra cost to you. For $10, you can get 50-75 of the commercial paraffin cubes...so why not make your own?

The Kombucha Experiment

I really wanted to get on the kombucha train, but made some poor flavor decisions initially. I didn't let that keep me away though, and I tried a variety of different flavors, many of which I loved. So once I realized it was a flavor issue, and not a kombucha issue, I decided to try brewing my own.

So what's the buzz about kombucha?
Kombucha seems to be a fad right now, but really it's been around for centuries! I've read varying information about the benefits (or not) of kombucha. A summary of what I've learned is that not only do you get the same health benefits as tea (antioxidants), your gut gets some extra TLC. Kombucha contains probiotics, which make your gut happy and can aid with indigestion, inflammation, and weight loss. Other purported health benefits are improved weight loss, improved cholesterol/blood sugar, reduced risk of certain cancers/heart disease, and assistance managing type 2 diabetes.

Now I can't say for sure that all of this is true, but I know tea & kombucha have been considered health tonics for centuries. I know my gut feels better when I drink it, and I experience improved energy levels which helps me focus and be more active. I also am allergic to dairy, and tend to cheat (A LOT), and I find regular consumption on kombucha helps fight most of the negative digestive effects.

I also really like it because it's helped me kick soda. I don't drink soda for the caffeine, but for the sugar & carbonation. Kombucha is a healthier way for me to feed those desires, plus when I make it I know what has gone into it. And there is still the caffeine if that's your thing too ;)

I'm experimenting w/ making my own sodas as well, and you can totally use a kombucha brew method to give them some fizz if desired.

How do you make Kombucha?
Well, it's really a 2-step process. I am by no means an expert, but am happy to share what I've learned so far! But also, feel free to just use this info as a rough guide, and experiment with flavors, dilution strengths, etc.

I should also note there are 2 brewing methods: batch & continuous. I am currently using the batch method. If I see a need to move over to continuous, I will be sure to share that method with you in the future.

First Fermentation (F1)

1.Get a SCOBY and some starter tea.

I've read and seen posts of many people who have successfully started their own SCOBY from store bough kombucha. I've not tried this so cannot comment. I got my SCOBY from a friend who brews her own kombucha. There are also many reputable online stores where you can buy a SCOBY as well (Although I've heard you don't want to trust dehydrated SCOBYs).

The amount of starter you want is somewhere in the 1-2 cup range. My friend gave me a huge SCOBY from a 2.5 gallon crock, and 1 cup of tea. That gave me wonderful results, and for my second batch I also only used 1 cup of tea.

Once you've made your first batch, this step switches up a bit. You will now have 2 SCOBYs in your crock. Save 1 along with 1-2 cups of your F1 kombucha and start your next batch! You can put the other SCOBY into a hotel, pass it along to a friend, find another creative use for it, or simply dispose of it (they compost well).

2. Brew yourself up some sweet tea.

I've read a multitude of methods here, and for my first run I just followed the steps my friend uses. Typically, kombucha is made with black tea, but my friend uses green tea. Feel free to experiment here though, as I've seen many success stories with all different sorts of tea. My one note of warning would be to avoid teas like earl grey because the oils can mess of your brew, and herbals may not have enough tannins for the brew to be successful (however, I have also heard success stories, so you do you; I would recommend not straying from regular tea for your first couple brews).

For my first run I used about 8 bags of organic green tea, steeped in 8 cups of water for about 15 minutes. While still warm, dissolve about 1 cup of sugar. I then added another 7 cups of COLD water to help bring down the temperature, as you will want your tea at room temp for the next step.

I was told to use organic cane sugar, so that is what I did and it worked great. However I know of people who have successfully used regular white sugar, and even honey (although I believe the use of honey means you are making JUN, and not kombucha?).

These amounts are for 1 gallon of kombucha. Adjust as needed for the amount you want. My friend recommended 1 gallon per person, and since I am the only one in my house who drinks this, that is what I did. Frankly, I found this to be more than enough!

You can also adjust the type & amount of tea. Generally I see people hover around 8-10 tea bags (or equivalent loose tea) per 1 gallon of kombucha, but again this is all about experimentation so if you want to use more go for it. The flavor is pretty light at 8 bags of green tea, but that lends it self well to all sorts of flavoring ;)

What's that SCOBY doing?

3. Add your SCOBY & starter.

As mentioned in Step 2, you want to get your sweet tea down to room temp first. You can brew your sweet tea in your crock, or pour it in once at room temp. You will want to use a glass or food-safe ceramic crock or other vessel (I use a 1 gallon mason jar myself).

Once you are there, add your starter tea and place your SCOBY on top. Make sure your hands are clean before touching your SCOBY (a simple vinegar rinse is sufficient). It's OK if your SCOBY doesn't fit your crock--you can trim it down if it's too big; and if it's too small no worries, it will still do it's job and a new one will grow anyways that will fit your crock perfectly.

Don't worry if your SCOBY sinks, sits vertically, or otherwise doesn't float nicely on top. It will do what it wants. SCOBYs are living things and they will do as they please! A new one will form anyway, and as long as you see that happening you know everything is working.

4. Cover and let sit.

Cover your crock with a coffee filter or cloth (like a flour sack towel). You want the air ventilation as it helps the natural yeasts & bacterias eat the sugar and turn your tea into kombucha. Do not use cheese cloth as the holes are too large & you don't want fruit flies! Or if you do use cheesecloth, make sure to use multiple layers.

Now be patient...I've heard you should wait at least 3-5 days before checking on your brew.

5. Taste your brew.

Your kombucha is done when you decide it is. It's all about your taste preferences honestly. I would wait until you see your new SCOBY has formed before tasting (which I believe took about 4 days for me). Many people say kombucha takes 10-14 days, but you can start tasting earlier. My friend says hers only takes 7 days, so since I used her SCOBY & method I tasted mine at 7 days. I was happy with the result and decided I was done. However, for my second batch I waited 14 days to see the difference, just because. It actually had more bite, but not in a bad way. I tend to like sweet so was happy at 7 days, but I think 14 days is actually more to my liking. However, find your own sweet spot (pun intended!). The environment you store your kombucha in will impact the fermentation process, so just because 7 days was perfect for my friend at her house, doesn't mean 7 days will be perfect for me at my house. Our house environments are going to be slightly different, and also probably our tastes.

Some people do pH testing...I personally do not, but I'm also a super newbie! The longer you let it brew, the more acidic it will become. If you want it sweeter, stop brewing earlier; if you want it sour, brew it longer. Do not be put off by a funky, vinegary smell. It's all good! Well, as long as your SCOBY doesn't grow any mold. If it does, you probably want to start over with a new or reserved SCOBY.

6. Bottle & prepare for F2.

Once you are happy with your brew, it is time to bottle it up. First remove your SCOBY with clean hands. You can place this into a temporary dish, SCOBY hotel, or new brewing crock. Make sure to include 1-2 cups starter tea from your current brew.

You will now want to pour your kombucha into bottles for storing or F2. I've heard it is fine to bottle and put straight in the refrigerator if you are happy with the results. However, if you want some fizz you probably want to give it a second ferment, regardless of your desire to include flavorings.

I've read you want to give your brew a good stir before distributing it so that your yeast particles get kicked up and end up in each bottle (you can also do this before pulling your starter, but I forgot & everything still worked fine for my second batch).

L-R: Cucumber/Melon, Mango/Peach/Strawberry,
Plum/Blueberry/Kiwi

Second Fermentation (F2)

7. Prepare your flavorings, if desired.

Half of the fun of brewing my own kombucha, is being able to choose my own flavors! You can use pretty much anything here... fruits (fresh/frozen, chopped/pureed/juiced), juices, herbs, flowers, other teas (herbal or otherwise...), probably vegetables? For my first attempt, I decided to try & mimic some of my favorite smoothies:

Mango/Peach/Strawberry:
     1 mango, 1 peach, 6 strawberries
Plum/Blueberry/Kiwi:
     2 plums, 2 kiwis, 1/2 cup blueberries
Cucumber/Melon*:
     1/4 cucumber, 1/8 melon, 1 lime zested/juiced
*For my first try, I used watermelon, but my smoothies are usually honeydew. I also usually add mint & honey to the smoothies. Not sure the mint would be needed for the kombucha, but this flavor did not have a lot of fizz, so I think honey would have been beneficial.

I pureed the fruits in the same ratios I use in my smoothies, and added about 1/2 c of puree per 16 oz bottle. I probably could have gotten away with 1/4 - 1/3 cup instead (or maybe just used diced fruit instead of pureed), but my friend said she does 1 part flavoring to 3 parts kombucha, so who was I to mess with her tried & true method on my first round? Even at a 1/2 cup puree per 16 oz bottle, I had about enough to do 4 bottles of each flavor, but only enough F1 for 8-9 bottles (I only had 8 though).

For my second attempt I wanted to try something new. I used some of my brew to build a SCOBY
hotel (more on that later), and only had 2 empty bottles on hand (which is fine, I want to do some experimenting with the second brew anyway). Originally I was thinking something apple and something orange, but I ended up settling on using both bottles for an attempt at apple cider kombucha using 1/2 apple diced finely, 2 cardamom pods split, 2 cloves, and 1 cinnamon stick per bottle. I didn't think the apple would offer enough sugar, so I added 1/2 Tbsp sweetener (maple syrup for one and honey for the other).

You can realistically swap Steps 6 & 7. I personally find it easier to add my flavorings to the bottles first. My friend likes to fill her bottles with kombucha first. To each their own.

8. Add additional sugar, if desired.

Some flavors do not have as much sugar as others. Different fresh fruits have different sugar levels, Juices tend to have higher sugar (no shame in using prepared juices!). Herbs & floral flavors (or other teas) will definitely need a sugar boost.

Feel free to play with the sweetener you use. While most of the sugar is going to feed your fermentation, there may be a certain flavor profile you want.

I've also heard adding raisins helps build fizz without imparting additional flavor, so that's something else to consider. I actually gave this a try, and did not notice an impact on my flavors.

9. Cover & let ferment 1-3 days.

This step is really variable. Depending on the sugar content of your flavorings (if you used any at all), your brew may ferment at different levels. It's a good idea to check at regular intervals 1) to make sure you reach your desired fizz level, and 2) to make sure your bottles don't explode. You can help prevent exploding bottles by using grolsch style flip-top bottles, pressure tested bottles, or I have even found that commercial screw-top kombucha & ginger beer bottles are reliable.

I left all 3 of my flavors sit 3 days before checking them. The mango/peach/strawberry was so fizzy! There was a volcano when I opened the bottle. It probably could have gone just 1 day. The plum/blueberry/kiwi was also very fizzy & volcano-y, but not as much. Not sure if 1 day would have been enough, but definitely would not have gone more than 2. On the other hand, the cucumber/melon has barely any fizz! It's OK, but probably could have gone another 1-2 days, or used some additional sugar (like honey or more raisins).

You can strain & rebottle your brew if desired, or leave as is. It won't hurt either way, although you may sacrifice some of the fizz if you strain & rebottle (not always an issue though!).

10. Refrigerate until you are ready to enjoy!

Once your bottles have reached their desired level of fizz, place them in the refrigerator. This not only stops further fermentation, it helps the carbonation better integrate into the liquid which can help prevent volcanoes when you open your bottles ;) Also, I personally find my kombucha most enjoyable when cold, but then again I like most drinks cold.

If you did not strain your brew in the previous step, your kombucha may be a a bit textured...You can strain prior to enjoying or drink straight. There is a possibility a baby SCOBY has formed. That is fine. It's safe to eat/drink, or you can discard it. Do not use these baby SCOBYs for new brews though, as they probably won't work (something something chemistry). Or try it out and prove me wrong!

What if you want to take a break?

I took a break after my second batch, because even though I let that batch go 2 weeks on F1, I still had not finished my 9 bottles from my first batch! I really like tea, but tend to drink regular more and kombucha is more of a treat (or soda substitute). You might drink it faster, or have more people to help you, etc. Regardless, sometimes you may want to stop brewing, but you are probably wondering what to do with that SCOBY.

SCOBY Hotel (long term)

I moved my SCOBYs into a hotel. You can do this with any of your SCOBYs, from your first to your most recent. So I currently have 3 SCOBYs sitting in my hotel because I have the one my friend gave me, and I've brewed 2 batches which has resulted in 2 new SCOBYs. A hotel is basically a jar full of your SCOBY(s), some starter, and some sweet tea. The hotel can be covered with cloth or a more secure lid. Every 4-6 weeks you will want to decant some of the original liquid out and add new sweet tea to keep your SCOBYs fed.

I moved my 3 SCOBYs into a 1 quart mason jar with 2 cups starter and 2 cups fresh sweet tea (using 1 tea bag and 1 Tbsp organic cane sugar). I sealed it up and it sits in my basement until I am ready to brew more! This is also a good way to store your extra SCOBYs if you don't want to get rid of them some other way (there are some creative food/health uses, composting, give to a friend, or just throw it out).

I want to keep a few on hand in case I mess something up! It's a good idea to have some on hand as a backup, because your experiment can go wrong (for example, I want to try a black tea brew next time), or just the ferment can go wrong for unknown reasons. I do have easy access to replacements since I have a hook up from my friend, but not everyone will be in that situation. You can always buy a new one too, but my limited experience & research has shown that your brews will get better over time, so starting anew with a brand new SCOBY may take you back a step.

Just Let it Brew (short term)

Alternately, I've also read that if you are only planning to take a break for 4-6 weeks, you can just leave your brew going. Yeah, it's going to get really acidic and taste like vinegar, but the SCOBY should be fine. This will give you a really strong starter for your next time, or some people use the result as a vinegar in things like salad dressing, etc. You probably don't want to drink this though or bother with your F2 ;)

Skin Soothing Bath Salts

Following suit with last week's anti-itch cream, let's continue to focus on how we can relieve our dry, itchy, or bug-bitten skin. I had ankle surgery about 3 months ago now, and my scar can certainly act up and cause me all sorts of grief. And as you learned last week, mosquitoes apparently find me delicious!

Now that I can actually enjoy a good soak (you can't soak your surgery site for quite some time!), I am taking advantage. I've used my sore muscle soak as a lovely way to rest & recover from physical therapy, but sometimes you just want to soothe and treat your skin. This bath salt recipe has done wonders for my dry & shedding skin, swollen and tight skin, and itchy scar (the joys of surgery recovery!). It's also helped out wonderfully when my legs were assaulted by mosquitoes my first day by the pool! Ah, the irony...

Anyway, here is my very soothing salt recipe for when you are itchy or your skin just needs a little extra TLC.

Skin Soothing Bath Salts
1 cup epsom salt
2 Tbsp baking soda
1/4 c ground oats (or oat flour)
10-20 drops essential oils of choice*
1/4 tsp trauma oil
1 Tbsp castille soap
2 tsp dried basil
2 tsp dried lavender
1 tsp dried rosemary

Dilute your essential oils in the trauma oil & castille soap. Don't stir too much, or it will get foamy! Pour your oil mix into your salts and stir until evenly distributed. Add your baking soda, and stir again until evenly distributed. For this salt mix, I like to grind my herbs before adding them. You can do this with a spice grinder, coffee grinder, or good old mortar & pestle (which is what I use!). This is both because it helps get rid of plant parts creating a ring in your tub (if you don't use a sachet, which I usually don't), and because I worried the ground oats would get funky if they absorbed anything so I like to use the ground herbs as a buffer to soak up anything first. If dried herbs aren't your thing, you can leave them out but might want to add the same plants to your oil selection. Add your ground oats (or oat flour) LAST! Oats tend to soak up any liquid they come in contact with, so I like to add them last, especially if making a large batch, to allow all the other ingredients to absorb the oils first.

Use 1/2-1 cup for a foot bath, or 1-2 cups for a full bath. Let everything dissolve well before hopping in (I personally like to wait 10-15 minutes to give the herbs time to "steep").

The recipe as listed above is for 1-3 uses. I like to make a large batch in advance, typically tripling the amounts above (resulting in about 4.5 cups of soak). If you decide to make a large batch, make sure to store your soak in an airtight glass container.

*I tend to favor lavender, camphor, chamomile, and sandalwood in equal parts. Another lovely combination would be frankincense, myrrh, and sandalwood, although I would probably switch up the herbs (possibly to something like lavender, chamomile, and thyme?) or leave them out.

Some other beneficial plants/oils which are technically included via the trauma oil & dried herbs include calendula, arnica, st. john's wort, basil, and rosemary. And there are even more oils purported for their skin care properties such as thyme, tea tree, eucalyptus, melissa, lemongrass...the list really does go on based on your needs! I've put together a small chart to help you identify which herbs/oils you may want to use in your skin soothing bath salts (citruses were discluded because they can be too strong or cause photo sensitivity):

Anti-Itch Cream

It's summer, the bugs are out, and my legs are apparently delicious! My family also generally reacts strongly to mosquito bites, with my brother & sister actually having allergic reactions that tend to result in silver dollar sized welts. I'm not that bad, but these bites itch something fierce, look red and angry, and will leave bruise-like marks weeks after they are gone. It's time for some relief, and what better place to get it than from my kitchen?

I created this "cream" as a sort of frankenstein recipe from other methods & creams I have found online. In reality, it is a bit more like a paste, and it won't rub in completely (I don't think that's possible with baking soda...). Also, just a heads up, but as this sits, the ground oats absorb some of the moisture and it gets a goopy texture. Still works a dream, but definitely a bit odd.

Anti-Itch Cream
2 Tbsp ground oats (or oat flour)
2 Tbsp baking soda
1 Tbsp honey
1 Tbsp aloe vera gel
1 tsp witch hazel
1 tsp apple cider vinegar
5 drops essential oil*

Combine all ingredients together, stirring until a smooth paste is formed, and store in an air-tight container. This cream should keep for about 30 days. You may be able to extend that by keeping it in the refrigerator (plus, the cool cream will feel even better on your bites & itchy skin).

To use, rub a small amount of the paste onto bites or itchy areas. If you don't like the pasty feeling/residue, wipe off with a cool damp cloth after a few minutes (just water is fine, but you could also soak in witch hazel, aloe vera juice, or apple cider vinegar). Reapply as often as needed. Alternately, you can dissolve a tablespoon or 2 of this paste into your bathe water for some relief.

*Lavender essential oil is a great choice, but there are other oils that will help with itching as well: eucalyptus, peppermint, basil, thyme, lemon balm (melissa), chamomile, tea tree; single drop of grapefruit, citronella, lemongrass. Even onion & garlic are helpful, if you are brave enough! 

My personal choice was a 5 oil cocktail (using 1 drop of each): lavender, eucalyptus, peppermint, chamomile, and basil. And you really only need 1 drop of each, any more is WAY too much. Keep your oils to 5 drops or less or this recipe.

Do the Ginger Bug!

So the boy & I have been looking into making our own root beer, surprisingly at his suggestion! He makes fun of me for all my tea...I don't think he realizes what actually goes into root beer ;) So I ordered a ton of herbs from Mountain Rose Herbs, but while I wait for my delivery (because I chose ground, thinking incorrectly that I could wait), I need to get a ginger bug going.

What is a Ginger Bug?
Ginger bug (or jitter bug, as the boy calls it), is a fermented starter for carbonated drinks. Carbonation is obtained through a small bout of lacto-fermentation, where the yeasts eat the sugar and give of carbon dioxide as a byproduct.

Even though this is a fermentation process, the alcohol quantity is negligible. The ginger bug takes about 1 week to set up, and you only let your sodas ferment for 3 days or so.

How to Make Ginger Bug
There are tons of directions floating around online, and a  lot of them overlap. I combined some different techniques that I found and am just sharing what works for me.

I've got a post-it on my jar w/ a quick reference

To Start:
2 cups filtered/unchlorinated water
2 heaping Tbsp fresh grated organic ginger
2 Tbsp organic cane sugar

To Feed:
2 Tbsp water
2 Tbsp ginger
2 Tbsp sugar

So to start your bug, combine the water, sugar, and ginger in a vessel. I use a 1-quart/1-liter sized glass mason jar. Stir well, making sure that sugar dissolves. Cover lightly with a cloth, and keep in a warm spot of your kitchen. I use a flour sack towel and rubber band or canning jar ring to secure it in place. You want to get that airflow to help feed the yeast & good bacteria.

Let your mixture sit 24 hours to start fermenting, then feed your bug daily at the same time, making sure to stir well and dissolve the sugar. I usually like to give my bug an additional stir or two throughout the day, usually just by swirling the liquid in the jar. After 5-8 days total (so 4-7 feedings), you should notice your bug to start developing a yeasty smell and bubbles. If it's warm in your kitchen the bug might ferment faster, and if it's cool it may take longer. If by day 8 you have not seen any progress, you should probably just start over.


When you are ready to use your bug, decant 1/4 cup per 1 quart of your soda base. If you want to keep your bug going at this point, replace each 1/4 c of bug used with 1/4 c water, 2 Tbsp ginger, and 2 Tbsp sugar.

You can easily maintain your bug with the same daily feedings as above, but you may need to decant liquid every week or two even if you are not making soda. Your other option is to seal your bug with an airtight lid and put it in the refrigerator. Once per week take your bug out, open it up and let it warm up, then feed it as usual. Let it sit a few hours so the yeast gets to eat the sugar, then seal it back up and put it in the refrigerator for another week or until you are ready to use it.

Tips & Tricks:
Make sure you use unchlorinated water, as the chlorine can impeded the fermentation process. I use filtered water myself, but you could also use water you have left sit out for a day or so. If your tap water doesn't have chlorine, go ahead and use that! I have also read you do not want to use distilled water, because that is basically a "dead" water without any of the minerals. If you are unsure if your water will work, just let it sit out for a day uncovered before using.

Also make sure you use organic ginger. In the United States at least, most store bought ginger has been irradiated which kills the natural yeasts. I thought this was bunk and tried with regular store bought ginger with no success. Once I picked up organic ginger, we were bubbling by day 2! It also doesn't matter how you grate it. My first attempt I used a zester/microplane and it was just annoying. Now I use a normal cheese grater and have great results. Yeah, you might get some ginger chunks when you decant your bug, but you can just strain those out (or not! it's up to you).

I've heard organic cane sugar preached, but I've also seen people who have successfully used plain white sugar. I've only used the organic cane sugar so can't comment on any other type of sugar or natural sweetener. Sweetener substitutes I am fairly confident will not work. The yeast needs something to feed off.  You might have mixed results with brown sugar, molasses, honey, or agave...I haven't come across anyone who uses this and have seen many people who caution against using theses in another fermented drink Kombucha. I would stick with the cane sugar.

You may see some white sediment collecting on the bottom on your jar, but don't worry. This is ginger sediment and spent yeast. IF you see white stuff on top, check to make sure you don't have mold. If you bug has molded, you will need to dump it and start over.


**Check back next week to read about our home made root beer!

Kitchen & Bath Scrub

Soft Scrub with Bleach used to be my go to for bathroom & kitchen cleaning. When we came across Bar Keeper's Friend, that took over for the kitchen. Neither is necessarily dangerous to my knowledge, but they also aren't very natural. I found a great scrub recipe on Aromahead, but really this recipe can be found all over the place by bloggers who make their own cleaners

This scrub is abrasive enough to bring some shine to your kitchen sink, lightly polish faucets, and scrub out your bath & toilet. It's also very customizeable, so you can use more or less baking soda to get the scrubbing power you need.

Kitchen & Bath Scrub

1 cup baking soda
1/4 cup liquid castille soap
1-2 Tbsp vinegar (optional)
30-40 drops essential oil

Mix the baking soda, castille soap, and vinegar together. It will form a rather thick paste (adjust to your preference/scrubbing power needs). Add essential oils and stir again to make sure they are fully dispersed.

Don't use any more than 2 Tbsp vinegar. Vinegar will cancel out both baking soda and castille soap. The fizzing action of vinegar and baking soda can help with some cleaning (particularly clogged drains), but when left to sit they are creating salt water. With the large amount of baking soda in this recipe, that is not much of  concern. Likewise, vinegar and castille soap can cancel each other out, leading to oil or "unsaponified" soap. With such a small amount of vinegar in this recipe, you are not risking these reactions.Alternately, you can leave the vinegar out as you lose the benefit unless you use this entire recipe right away.

Which Essential Oils?
Citrus oils, Tea Tree, and Peppermint are all great cleansing oils. Andrea Butje uses these in her recipe on Aromahead, but if you have her phone app you will see a different combination of oils listed. Really, you can just use whatever oils you enjoy the scent of. If you want the extra boost of cleansing power from antifungal, antiviral, and antimicrobial oils there are a lot of options or you can go with the tried and true citrus, tea tree, and peppermint.

My Hair Care Routine

As part of a transition to a more natural/green lifestyle, I've not only begun making chemical-free cleaning products & toiletries, I have adjusted the way I live. This includes a transition to more sustainable household items (such as slowly phasing out plastics for glass, ceramic, and metal), and adjusting my habits.

No-poo is a huge movement, and believe me I have made a good effort to follow this, but there are a few things that get in my way. My hair is super oily, even after months I was not able to go more than 3 days or so without an actual wash (dry shampoo only does so much, and eventually you will get build-up). I also found the baking soda method too abrasive for my scalp, and drying/damaging to my hair. So I experimented with making my own products and have a routine I can rely on.

This routine allows me to wash my hair 1-2 times per week. You'll notice it's not an exact schedule, as there are different factors going into how many days I can follow each step. Generally speaking though, I wash my hair every 3-4 days. However I have also found that if I need to wash a few days in a row, getting back into this routine is easy ad I don't need to readjust.

Day 1: Wash with homemade shampoo and conditioner

If I have the patience I'll let my hair air dry, but on particularly cold days or if I have somewhere to be early I have broken out my blow dryer (I always leave it damp/air-dry for a little bit even when I blow dry). I also am bad and will towel dry/scrub instead of t-shirt dry/squeeze. It's suppose to be damaging to your hair if you scrub it with a towel, but I haven't had problems and am an impatient person who likes my damp hair to still feel somewhat dried.







Day 2-4: Brush hair/Rinse with water

L: Dry Brush; R: Rinse & Brush

If you have a boar bristle brush, this can help you more evenly distribute sebum and oils. Some naturalists also recommend brushing thoroughly, with your head upright then upside down a couple times for proper oil distribution. I'm lazy so this doesn't normally happen--most of the time I just use my paddle brush lol. Usually my hair is still clean enough to leave down without feeling oily or heavy. If I am particularly active on this day, I may need to put it up.


Most days I still rinse my hair with water while I shower. I'll usually give it a quick brush before hopping in the shower. I saturate my hair and massage my scalp a bit, then rinse again.

Sometimes I can go up to 3 days only brushing and rinsing my hair. Other times I can only go a day or two. A lot of depends on how active I am, what the weather is like (and if I'm out in said weather), etc. I've found the farther I get into this habit, and the less I rely on dry shampoo, that it is much easier to push 2 or 3 days. Over the hot holiday weekend I was able to last a full 3 days, and we were out in the heat each day.


Day 3/4/5/6: Dry shampoo

In all honesty, I normally apply the dry shampoo the night before. I use a makeup brush to apply directly to my roots (in parts/lines about 1-2 inches apart along the front/sides, and also from my crown down to nape). Normally I'll work it in a little bit with my finger tips, and then I leave my hair down and go to bed. This allows the dry shampoo to collect all kinds of oils and evenly distribute itself. In the morning, I just brush my hair and style as usual.

I usually don't rinse my hair when using dry shampoo. I find that the oil build up still weighs down my hair. If I am on day 3 or 4, sometimes I'll still give it a try.

I also normally only do this 1 day, but sometimes I can pull off 2 days in a row. I tend to find the build up of 2 applications on top of my hair's oils to be too much. This is usually when I try giving my hair a rinse. I haven't found applying at night and rinsing or rinsing in the morning and applying when dry to be more effective than the other.

Also, sometimes I completely skip the dry shampoo day and move on to washing. Usually this will be if I'm pushing 3 days with no product.


Spot Treatment: Spritz with hair refresher

L: Before; R: After

If on any day my hair seems stringy, dry, lackluster, dull, or just looks heavy and lifeless, I will use my homemade refresher spray to give some life back to my hair. In fact, I use this most days where I'm not actually washing my hair. This conditions my hair which gives some shine and body back without having to get your hair completely wet. The brief dampness can also help with any specific styling needs.



Swimming: Water is your friend

My workout of choice is swimming. I frankly hate the gym, running (arbitrarily, I'm fine taking the dog out or if I have a destination, same with biking). Swimming is a great full body workout, and I supplement it with yoga. However that chlorine... Wetting your hair before swimming fills your hair up with water, leaving little room for chlorinated water to soak in. I also find that tying my hair back helps keep everything tight and protected against chlorine, or if you are up to it a swim cap will offer lots of protection. If you swim regularly, like I do, you may want to use a DIY conditioner to revitalize your locks.

I am still a newbie to a more natural hair care routine. I've only been trying this out for a little over 1 year and I went through a few different attempts before I found this system which I am happy with. Lucy over at Happy Hair has all kinds of advice, so if you don't find answer here check our her 5-year FAQ. I am particularly interested in checking out soap nuts myself n_~

DIY Hair Conditioner

So we've already covered a spray-in conditioner, but to go with my shampoo recipe, I wanted a conditioner to use in the shower as part of my routine. Apple Cider Vinegar is a great conditioner just on it's own, but you can also infuse it with herbs to get all kinds of extra benefits. Today's post will consist of 3 different options for you, each improving on the one before it.

ACV Hair Rinse
2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 qt water

Mix these together at the time of your shower and just pour over your hair after rinsing out your shampoo. I've seen other bloggers recommend equal parts ACV and water (at 1/4 cup to 2/3 cup each, depending on the length and thickness of your hair), but you really don't need that much ACV. I also find diluting it in a quart of water gives you ample liquid to fully saturate your hair.

You don't need to rinse this out either. You can follow-up with an all water rinse if desired, but it's not necessary. Don't worry if you smell a bit like ACV, it will dissipate quickly (and frankly, you are the only one who will notice until it does).

ACV Herbal Hair Rinse

1 quart apple cider vinegar (the kind with the mother)
1 cup herbs of choice (Wellness Mama has a great herb combo)
water

Combine herbs and vinegar in a large jar and secure cover. Infuse for about 4 weeks in a cool, dark place. Shake every other day or so, then strain through cheesecloth.

When you are ready to use your herbal rinse, dilute approximately 2 Tbsp infused vinegar in 1 quart water (or whatever ratio works best for you, up to equal parts). You can leave in as your final rinse or follow with an all-water rinse.

I have found that this has a very herby/earthy scent. If you want something a little more pleasing, you could add essential oils to your finished product. Personally, I have not tried this out but would say 45-50 drops of scents pleasing to you (or complimentary to the herbs you choose) should be sufficient. I would likely use equal parts lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary as they are all beneficial to hair and would be inline with the herbs I use as well as the scent for my dry shampoo.



What herbs do I use?
Wellness Mama and I actually have a lot of overlap between the herbs I prefer and what she recommends (I pretty much just sub lemongrass for basil). I will let you visit her blog for her recommendations & amounts, or you can peruse this list and decide which herbs and how much of each you want to use:

Horsetail strengthens your hair and also can help control oily hair thanks to its astringent properties.

Nettle is full of vitamins and minerals that will nourish and improve scalp health, as well as make your hair stronger and more vibrant.

Basil nourishes your scalp, promotes hair growth, and helps remove toxins and heavy metals.

Lavender is great for mixed skin types and will moisturize dry skin as well as calm inflammation. This also aids in controlling dandruff. It increases circulation which promotes hair health and growth.

Rosemary helps control sebum production, especially beneficial for oily hair and to aid in controlling dandruff from dry and itchy scalps. It also affects circulation promoting hair health and growth. It's slightly astringent properties strengthen hair follicles which helps prevent hair loss.

Lemongrass is an effective cleaner and deodorizer. It also soothes irritated and itchy scalps helping to reduce dandruff, as well as promotes general hair health and growth.

Slippery Elm Bark stimulates hair growth, softens hair (provides slip and glide), and soothes the scalp.

Marshmallow Root has the same benefits as slippery elm, but also adds shine to lackluster locks.

ACV Cream Rinse

2 Tbsp coconut oil
2 Tbsp shea or cocoa butter
1 Tbsp beeswax (or BTMS-50 emulsifying wax)

1/2 c apple cider vinegar (raw or infused)
1/2 c water
1/2 c coconut milk
1/2 - 1 tsp xanthum gum (depending on desired consistency)




For those of you that prefer a cream rinse, I did some experimenting. Shea butter and coconut oil are both known for their moisturizing properties, which are not only limited to the skin (and in fact are both present in the commercial conditioner I used to buy). And combined, they make a wonderful body butter, so I decided to start with that base and add the ACV rinse until I got a consistency I was happy with.

To make this cream rinse, you will need to start by melting your coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax in a double boiler. While those are melting down, whisk together your liquids and xanthum gum. The xanthum helps the liquids mix into the fats.

Just like a body butter, let your oil mixture cool slightly, until it just starts to solidify (if you poke your finger into it, it should make a dent). Before your mixture solidifies completely, take out your hand mixer or immersion blender and start whipping to form a body butter like consistency. Slowly pour in you liquid mixture and continue whipping until fully incorporated and you have an even texture throughout (it will be like an emulsified dressing).

Use as you would commercial conditioner. I use about a quarter sized amount and work through the length of my hair, focusing more on the ends and less on the roots/scalp. Rinse with water.

I find this conditioner very moisturizing, so I don't use it for each wash. About once per month (I only wash my hair 2-3 times per week, so every 8-10th wash; if you wash your hair daily you might be able to use this as frequently as once per week) is enough for me, and it gives my locks some new life.

Humblebee & Me also has a good looking 2-in-1 formula. I haven't tried it out, but it did provide some inspiration for my cream rinse recipe.

Dishwasher Detergent Revisited

As with my laundry soap, I've made some adjustments over time to my original dishwasher detergent recipe. Again I chose to remove the Borax because I found that it was leaving a film on my dishes. I also decided to add some castille soap for a little extra cleaning action.

DIY Dishwasher Soap - Redux

2 c washing soda
1/2 c kosher salt
1/2 c citric acid
1/4 c castille soap*, finely grated
(approximately 1/2 bar or 2-3 oz)
20 drops essential oil (optional)

Make sure to finely grate or chop your soap. I found that freezing it for 30-60 minutes and using a food processor to be very effective, but you could use a grater or other method. Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump.

My personal preference for essential oils in this application is citrus, such as lemon, grapefruit, or a blend. I currently am using a cleansing blend of lemon, clove, eucalyptus, and rosemary.


Something you will want to note is that the citric acid will attract moisture and may cause your soap to clump (or if you are really unlucky, as I have been in the past, fuse into 1 large block). This won't hurt anything, but it can be annoying and may make it harder for your soap to dissolve. Two good tips I've found are to leave your soap in a large, uncovered bowl for a couple days to let it dry out (make sure to stir it periodically to help break up any clumps), and to make a desiccant to keep in your container to absorb any excess moisture (for example powdered clay or dry rice in an empty tea bag, pantyhose, or sock).

To Make Tablets: Add about 1 cup of water to your dry mixture. Your mix will fizz up, just let it. Once the fizzing has stopped you will have a wet sand like texture. Scoop your detergent into molds (ice cube trays are good) and pack firmly. Let dry uncovered for at least 24 hours (or until completely dry). Store in an air-tight container.

Use 1 Tbsp (or 1 tablet) per load. For a simple rinse agent, use white vinegar. If that is not cutting it, you can always pour some vinegar into the bottom of your dishwasher and/or mist your dishes with vinegar while they dry. I also recommend making sure to clean your dishwasher itself if you are having build-up, sediment, or film issues (including cleaning that drain trap). I have also heard that using homemade dishwasher detergents with plastics can cause a film on your non-plastics.

*Make sure you grab castille soap, you do not want a soap that suds in this mixture!

Laundry Detergent Revisted

It's been a while since I posted my original laundry soap recipe, and I've made some adjustments since then. Primarily, I chose to remove the Borax. Now, this isn't for health concerns, as the current debate on Borax may suggest, but because I found that Borax created a film or barrier on my clothing. Oil spots were not getting cleaned, and eventually over time (I'm talking 6-12 months or even years) some items had a noticeable film. They just didn't feel clean anymore, so I decided to revamp my recipe to remove the Borax. I also swapped out the Fels-Naptha for straight up castille soap. This is two fold. I didn't exactly like the scent that came with the Fels-Naptha, and it's not exactly a natural alternative (this soap includes extra chemicals). I also like knowing that, should I become that adventurous, I could make my own castille soap to use in this recipe.

DIY Laundry Soap - Redux

1 bar castille soap (5 oz)
3 c washing soda
1 c Oxyclean (or more washing soda)
1 c baking soda
30 drops essential oil (optional)

Make sure to finely grate or chop your soap. I found that freezing it for 30-60 minutes and using a food processor to be very effective, but you could use a grater or other method. Mix all ingredients together and store in an air tight container. If using essential oils, make sure to mix in well before storing, so that the oils are evenly distributed and your soap does not clump. My personal preference for essential oils are lavender and sandalwood, but choose whatever you enjoy the scent of or find relaxing (a great choice for bedding).

Use 1 Tbsp per load. This recipe is great for top load, front load, and HE washers (I've actually tested it in all 3). For a simple, green fabric softener use vinegar in the washer as you would liquid fabric softener, or add some wool balls to your dryer (either option can be scented using essential oils as well!). You could also make a dryer sheet by soaking a small cloth or rag in vinegar and throwing that into the dryer with your clothes.

Stripping your clothes
Wait what? Didn't removing the borax solve the problem of creating a film or layer on the material? Yes and no. Borax was the big culprit for me, but ultimately you are still using a soap. Soaps can leave films. Commercial detergents are just that, detergents (not soap). You may also just be dealing with hard water and all the sediment that comes with it. So, every now and then you may still find some build up on your clothing that you will want to remove.

Basically, you'll soak your clean clothes in hot water with a stripping solution. You can buy one or make your own. Most DIY stripping solutions are equal parts washing soda and borax. Some include (or simply just are) dish washing soap like the blue Dawn. Soak your clothes 45-60 minutes, stirring a few times. Drain and squeeze out excess water. Run your clothes through a water only wash cycle to remove any remaining solution, dirt, and oils.

The Debate on Borax

I always do a good bit of research before deciding on a DIY to trying or making my own recipes. This has included looking into Borax, as I've seen bloggers who use it without question and others who say it is an unsafe material. Crunchy Betty and Wellness Mama do a great job of collecting the arguments for both sides, but I encourage you to do your own digging as well.

The Argument Against Borax
Borax has been classified by multiple organizations as concerning. EWG ranks it as moderately hazardous. The FDA banned it as a food additive, and ECA flagged it as a high concern.

Some physiological concerns are also noted. It can be a skin irritant, and some individuals have reported chemical burns. In some studies it was shown to cause lung irritation. Ingestion of borax can cause stomach pain and sickness. Boric acid is linked to hormone disruption (males) or fertility/pregnancy issues (females, primarily animals).

Use of borax in soil has also caused crop problems. It is used in insecticides and pesticides.

The Argument for Borax
Ok, well, this is less an argument for Borax, and more of a de-bunking of the arguments against it...

Borax is a salt, not an acid. Borax (sodium tetraborate or sodium borate) is a naturally occurring mineral salt. Boric acid (hydrogen borate) is the result of borax reacting with another acid. In some places these compounds occur together (such as volcanic areas or in seawater), but the borax we are buying at the store for our DIY projects is a salt that can be found naturally in the ground.

Borax is ranked the same as baking soda or salt when it comes to MSDS data, and NIH does not really indicate it as concerning unless ingested in large quantities (just like table salt). Indigestion or skin irritation all depend on the amount of a substance used and the individual person, but that does not inherently make a substance poisonous. Also, the non-topical physiological symptoms are related to ingesting large amounts of borax, which again you could have the same issues ingesting large amounts of baking soda or table salt.

Boron (the element in borax) is actually necessary to life, in small amounts. It is a trace mineral that benefits normal growth and a healthy body by helping to strengthen cell walls. Boron is also beneficial to crop soil (boron, not boron salt or borax). However, boron has been show to cause issues for arthropods, making it a good candidate for insecticides. Boric acid is the chemical you will find in insecticides or pesticides, not borax.

Conclusion?
Honestly, it's up to you. Make your own informed decision. Personally, I used Borax in laundry soap and dishwasher detergent for years, and my only complaint was about long-term performance. Over time, I noticed that my clothes and dishes appeared to get a film. In laundry detergent this can be associated with the soap as well, but some of my research suggested borax could also be a culprit.

If you choose to remove Borax from your repertoire, don't worry about having to find all new recipes. You can very easily replace Borax with washing soda in any cleaning product recipe and have good results. This won't make your whites whiter, but it should help if you are having issues getting things clean and removing that film.