Thursday, July 11, 2013

Yarn Options

I briefly went over fiber options in my Caring for Hand Knits post back in May, but that didn't really get into why you might choose a specific fiber. Unless of course your only concern is ease of washing n_~

Anyway, yarn options can go one of two ways: fiber or weight. Fiber is pretty self-explanatory. For the most part you have 3 options: synthetic, natural (animal), and natural (plant). Weight refers to the yarn thickness. There are a wider range of options for weight, but typically infant projects range from fine to medium. Weight is also usually dictated by the project, but in some instances (e.g. blankets, sweaters) you may want to choose.

Now for the break down...

Fiber Types

Natural Fibers: Animal

Wool varieties come from sheep. Depending on the type of wool, the yarn will range from scratchy to very soft (although with a good wash, most ends up very soft). Wool also has the possibility of allergies (specifically lanolin which keeps the wool soft, but the fiber itself can cause reactions too)--this is something to be careful with when ordering infant items. However, wool can also be very warm so may be a good choice for a blanket or sweater in colder climates. Most wool also needs to be hand washed and requires special care. There is also the possibility you will see some dye in the water during your first few washes. This is normal with wool, and I always wash it at least once before sending your items out as well.

Superwash wool has been chemically treated so that it can be machine washed without felting. This essentially removes the outer "fuzzy layer" so the wool may not feel as soft or bouncy. However, it also tends to be more colorfast than regular wool.

Llama & Alpaca Fleece are naturally very soft. They are probably my favorite fibers. They are also said to be hypoallergenic, although I have run into a few people who are allergic so keep that in mind if you do not know about the baby's allergies. Like wool, llama and alpaca fleece will felt in a washer so items made with this fiber need to be hand washed.

There are also other kinds of fleece that you could select, but to be honest I have not worked with most of them:
  • Yak Fleece comes from yaks. Surprising, right? I have actually handled this and it was very sturdy. After 1 or 2 washes is softens up too.
  • Mohair & Kashmir Fleece comes from goats. I have heard they are very soft and cuddly fabrics. Mohair also has a halo about it.
  • Angora comes from rabbits. This yarn also tends to have a halo. I have also heard mixed reviews from it being very soft to very scratchy.

Silk is very soft and has a beautiful drape. However it is also rather pricey. This is a great choice for adult items like shawls, gloves, or stockings.

Natural Fibers: Plant

Cotton and Linen can be very soft or very sturdy. It honestly depends on how it was processed. For infant items I always use the softer cotton, but for kitchen items I tend to go with the sturdier cotton to give some extra oomph to your scrubbing power. You of course are more than welcome to request the soft cotton for kitchen items, and I usually choose it for bath items. Cotton is a great choice for knitwear in warmer climates. It is light and breathes very well. You can also generally wash cotton items in a machine (just be wary of hot wash and hot dry!)

Hemp is a very sturdy yarn. It is softer than the hemp twine or jute you would use for necklaces and macrame, but it is still a bit rougher than other yarns. Not to say this doesn't make for a nice fabric, but I recommend using hemp for small or lacey items over full solid garments (e.g booties or a shawl would be better than a solid knit sweater).

Bamboo is incredibly soft, but it is also a bit more processed than other plant fibers. It also has an incredible sheen and is said to be antibacterial. However it soaks up water quite a bit and can get weak when wet. This would be a great blanket choice, but perhaps not for every day items.

Rayon is another processed plant fiber. It also has a great luster and drape like bamboo. However rayon is weak in the heat, so needs special care and must be hand washed in cool water.

Synthetic

Acrylic is my go to for infant items because it is durable and can be abused (by children and washing machines). You don't have to worry about dye coming out in the wash or shrinkage. This is synthetic and unfortunately that means it is heavily processed. You may hear "horror stories" about squeaky or melting acrylic. I have never had this issue, although cheap acrylic is scratchy. However, I hate that kind so you will not be getting it in your orders.

Specialty yarns are a wide variety and include things like Ribbon, Art, etc. These yarns typically serve a specific purpose. Ribbon yarn is usually used for interesting scarves. Art yarn tends to have beads, varying thicknesses, or other adornments giving your item a unique look.

Yarn Weights

Lace yarn is very thin, almost like thread. This yarn is used to create a light. airy fabric. As such I would not recommend it for infant items. However, it is lovely for shawls or lacey cardigans (that you plan to wear over something else, of course).

Superfine yarn is still very thin, but it actually has some substance to it (unlike lace yarn). Other terms used to describe this weight of yarn include Sock, Fingering, and Baby. As you might guess, superfine yarns are often used for socks and other small items. I will use superfine for items like booties, sweaters, pants, and skirts. It will make a rather thin fabric.

Fine yarn is a more average weight. It is probably the thickness you would normally think of for yarn. Like superfine, Baby may also be used to refer to fine weight, as will the term Sport. This is the weight I most frequently used for infant apparel. It will not create a bulky fabric for small items, but it still has enough substance to it that I feel it will keep an infant warm in cooler climates. I occasionally will use this weight for infant blankets as well (particularly tunisian blankets--the thin yarn gives a nice tight stitch without making the fabric overly dense and stiff).

Light yarn is similar to fine but tends to have a bit more substance and bounce to it. You may also hear the terms DK (double knitting) and Light Worsted in relation to this weight. I tend to use fine and light rather interchangeably and sometimes mix them within one project.

Medium yarn is of an average thickness, and another one of the weights you probably naturally think about when yarn comes to mind. Worsted, Afghan, and Aran are other common terms that refer to this yarn weight. Normally I do not use medium yarns on baby items, except for blankets. I find non-tunisian blankets work well in medium yarns. I also use this weight for slippers and adult sweaters.

Bulky yarn is very thick. To give you an idea, the other terms associated with bulky are Chunky and Rug. You may hear the term Craft from time to time to.This yarn is a great choice for a thick blanket, sweater, or jacket. I would recommend considering this weight for blankets and outerwear in cold climates.

Super Bulky is getting close to thin rope in terms of thickness. Roving is also considered super bulky (for those of you not into fiber crafting, this is essentially taking raw wool or fleece and pulling it into strips). I rarely use this for clothing. On a rare occasion I may use it for a jacket or blanket.


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